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Why is risotto yellow, anyway? The history of every Italian restaurant’s golden rice staple

Risotto gets its yellow colour from the addition of saffron.
Risotto gets its yellow colour from the addition of saffron.

Was risotto born from an artistic accident, or ‘culinary contamination’? We asked some of Milan’s top chefs

There are plenty of restaurants across the world that claim to serve risotto on their menus, but how authentic is it really? Chances are, not very.

Risotto is part of the Milanese DNA, a reflection of their soul
Chef Cesare Battisti

For the true risotto experience, gourmands should travel to Milan to savour the only real, authentic and original recipes – risotto alla Milanese or risotto allo zafferano.

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The latter name means “cooked with saffron” – but both related recipes utilise the same spice, which is what lends traditional risotto its golden colour and soft texture.

Traditional risotto is coloured golden thanks to the addition of saffron
Traditional risotto is coloured golden thanks to the addition of saffron

The Milanese are literally crazy for risotto, just like the Romans for spaghetti. It’s their daily bread.

So how did this addiction start?

There are many tales tracing the origins of risotto allo zafferano – but only one is backed up by historical documentation, related to a lavish Renaissance feast.

Cesare Battisti, one of Milan’s top chefs who proudly serves traditional cuisine at his stylish Ratanà restaurant, went searching for the answer himself amid piles of dusty books.

Silvia Marchetti is a Rome-based freelance reporter. She covers finance, economics, travel and culture for a wide range of international media. Silvia has a master degree in journalism and has lived abroad most of her life in Switzerland, Russia, Holland and Indonesia. She’s fluent in four languages.