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Is celebrity wine any good? From Leonardo DiCaprio’s Champagne Telmont to Jay-Z’s Armand de Brignac, A-listers everywhere are bringing their bottles to the table – here’s the experts’ verdict

Leonardo DiCaprio is a high-profile investor in Telmont champagne. Photos: Handout
“Having a celebrity name attached definitely has its benefits, but it’s a double-edged sword – for the brands and for sommeliers,” admits David Farber, ex-banker and co-founder of Porte Noire wines. “Of course celebrity gets people talking about what you’re doing, but there can also be negative connotations in celebrity when it’s attached to a product. It puts the product under the microscope.”

Farber has pondered this question a lot, because his business partner is the actor Idris Elba. The pair founded the brand in 2020. “He asked me a lot of questions about the economics of champagne as a business, but it was more a company born of time spent around a table with a lot of nice bottles,” laughs Farber.

Porte Noire was co-founded by actor Iris Elba

“I think people know it’s not Idris out there picking the grapes and pressing the wine. All the same he’s very conscious that if he puts his name to something, he doesn’t want it to be considered some kind of joke, or just be another lifestyle venture.”

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Elba is certainly not alone. Recent years have seen many celebrities launch their own wines – not to mention spirits and beers – such that “celebrity wine” has become a market sector all of its own, especially in the US – even if not all have been successful. Actors George Clooney, Diane Keaton, Kurt Russell and Sam Neill, model Cara Delevingne, film director Francis Ford Coppola, cricketer Ian Botham, rapper Snoop Dogg, musicians Jon Bon Jovi and John Legend, fashion designer Roberto Cavalli … the list of famous faces that have bought estates or teamed up winemakers goes on and on.
Sarah Jessica Parker is the founder of wine Invivo X, SJP
They all face the challenge of wine buff snobbery – even if many of their wines have been highly rated. Sarah Jessica Parker’s Invivo X, SJP range of wines, for example, has been awarded more than 60 ratings of above 90 points since its launch in 2019, while in 2021 Jay-Z sold a 50 per cent stake in his Armand de Brignac to Moet Hennessy. Porte Noire haven’t proved immune. “As much as I hate celebrity wines, I couldn’t help but finish the bottle,” Farber quotes one reviewer concluding.

Barbara Drew, master of wine at brokers Berry Bros. & Rudd, says it’s easy to see why celebrities might want to get involved, even without the prestige still attached to wine, or the potential for profit. “The fact is that the wine world is fascinating, and great fun to delve into, so it’s no surprise at all that celebrities are everywhere in the world of wine,” she says.

Della Vite was founded by model Cara Delevingne

But is celebrity involvement any good for the wine business at large? Guy Heywood, founder of specialist online retailer The Celebrity Drinks Collection, argues yes, and not just because celebrities have the means to pour an often make-or-break investment into small producers. Wine-making, after all, is a process that can take years before any return is seen.

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“I think it can encourage drinkers to explore different wines, encourage non-wine drinkers to try wine, and make wine that much more relatable – especially if the wine suits each celebrity’s own fan base,” he argues. “That’s why it makes sense for, say, Leonardo DiCaprio to be involved with a biodynamic wine, and for Kylie Minogue to have an alcohol-free sparkling wine.” Last year DiCaprio invested in Champagne Telmont, while Kylie Minogue Wines was founded in 2020. Likewise, Cameron Diaz has co-built Avaline, a multimillion dollar “clean” wine business, tapping the crossover between luxury and wellness with its claim to be completely organic and additive-free.

Katherine Power and Cameron Diaz are co-founders of Avaline
Sure, Heywood concedes, a lot of scepticism remains, not least because many celebrities attach their names to multiple products, from fashion to fragrances, cars to clubs. “So consumers are justified in questioning the integrity of such products, and asking if it’s not just another celebrity slapping their name on something,” he says. “But I think it says something to the seriousness of many celebrities’ interest in wine that their name isn’t mentioned on the bottle at all.”

John Malkovich’s Les Quelles de la Coste label is a case in point, while Brad Pitt remains more in the shadows as owner of Miraval, consistently named one of the top 100 roses in the world. Likewise Sting’s association with the Tuscan Il Palagio estate he owns pops up in somewhat subtle marketing efforts – of course, it has to have a wine called Message in a Bottle.

Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay has his own line of wines
That’s why a company like Benchmark Drinks, which develops wines with the chef Gordon Ramsay and singer Gary Barlow, as well as Kylie Minogue – who has leveraged her cross-generational appeal into sales of 1.5 million bottles of prosecco rose every year – is keen to set certain parameters before working with a celebrity. Managing director Paul Schaafsma says each celebrity it works with has to see it as a genuine passion project and agree to an ongoing commitment to the creative and promotional process. They also, he concedes, “have to hit the right demographic, and there are celebrities who might want to get involved [in wine] that don’t yet have the right reach or the right portfolio”.

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Reach matters – as Schaafsma notes, major celebrities have a social media punch way beyond that of most wine brands – because part of his interest in working with celebrities is to better explain wines too. “The wine world has long played to the interests of makers, not consumers,” he says. “Most people have not gone to a winery, never met a winemaker. They just wander down the aisles hoping they don’t pick a bad wine.” Celebrity cuts through the chatter in the way a new wine brand cannot. “Yes, the consumer might buy a bottle of wine the first time because of the celebrity name on the label,” he stresses. “But they won’t buy it a second time if it’s not any good.”

Graham Norton and New Zealand winemakers Invivo toast to making their tenth vintage of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc together at Arundel’s-on-the-Pier pub in Ahakista in West Cork, Ireland. Photo: Miki Barlok

Ultimately then, it’s the taste test that counts – because certainly there are more cynical marketing ploys that see the likes of The Rolling Stones and Kiss lend their band names to bottles, too. Last year a wine critic showed how easy it is to launch a “celebrity” wine – despite not being a celebrity himself, it took him just two months to get his “own” label wine from inception to the shelves. The celebrity wine world only looks to get more lucrative for those cashing in, but for fans it pays to read a few reviews – of their wines, not their albums or films – before uncorking a bottle.

  • George Clooney, Sarah Jessica Parker, Idris Elba, Cameron Diaz, Cara Delevingne, Francis Ford Coppola, Snoop Dogg, Sting, Jon Bon Jovi and John Legend are just a few big names that have stamped their names on bottles
  • Style asked industry experts – Porte Noire’s David Farber, Benchmark’s Paul Schaafsma, Guy Heywood of The Celebrity Drinks Collection and Barbara Drew of Berry Bros. & Rudd – for a professional opinion