“The social movements of 2019, followed by the unprecedented pandemic, posed enormous challenges to our operations,” Gokson said in the statement. “Sevva is taking stock of its success after more than a decade and a half and will be open to new creative directions.”

Gokson says the closure will affect the livelihoods of all of its staff. “We have just under 100 staff,” she says, adding many of them have worked at Sevva for more than a decade.

“There are plenty of nostalgic sentiments to be parting with our many staff, especially the ones who have been working with me for a decade,” she says. “I sincerely wish them well in their future endeavours and to have a boss who will treat them just as well.”

If the restaurant’s walls could talk, it would certainly make for interesting dinner conversation. Maybe they might even solve a few mysteries – such as who stole the black-and-white vintage car print from the men’s toilet one year.

Gokson, of course, has many stories of her own to share when we meet her one autumn afternoon.

And that symphony would nary have a note out of place: Gokson is a perfectionist when it comes to service and at Sevva it shows at every turn, from the crisp cloth napkins to the soft chicken sandwiches elegantly housed in wax wrappers.

“Today is Monday, so for the music we chose Carmen,” she says of the opera by French composer Georges Bizet.

A slice of cheesecake lands on the table and even the tiny drops of lemon curd here have been strategically placed. It’s the same with Sevva’s lavender walls: the hue complements a man’s grey or navy suit, she says.

Gokson had a privileged childhood in a family that loved to entertain. “I was raised with satin chairs and crystal-cut glasses and Sevva is an extension of that.

“I always say God is in the details – and, at Sevva, I am perfect with details.”

But details about whether it was a decision by Sevva, which occupies 2,000 square feet (186 square metres) on the 25th floor of the Landmark Prince’s in Central on Hong Kong Island, or its landlord, Hongkong Land, not to renew the lease, were lacking.

“We do not have additional information to share at this time. Our precise press release is what we’d like to share,” is the response given some weeks after our initial conversation over tea.

Meanwhile, a representative for Hongkong Land said it does not discuss or disclose individual tenant leases.

“In terms of the future of the space, Hongkong Land routinely evaluates options to invest in and constantly evolve its Central Portfolio ecosystem, delivering the highest quality experience to tenants, customers and Hong Kong as a whole,” it said, adding it “will announce the future plan for the space in due course”.

Its 360-degree terrace got fresh flooring and a state-of-the-art German sound system.

“It was a big renovation for Sevva and one may not see the amount of work we’ve done,” she says. “The entire flooring of our massive terrace had to be ripped up and all of our bar and kitchen had to be renewed. It cost us a low eight digits [in Hong Kong dollars] for all the renovations.”

It’s a long way from the dark office space of the 1960s building that she was determined to convert into a “chic urban oasis” with architect Calvin Tsao on board. The planning process to start Sevva was painful.

“It was nine months of agony – probably like having triplets without anaesthesia,” she recalls.

“I wanted a home away from home where guests could adjourn after dinner to the balcony,” she says. “That was how I grew up.”

In true Gokson style, she promises that Sevva will bow out with a “starry soirée” – fabulous parties attended by fabulous people are, after all, what Sevva has been known for over the years.

But Hong Kong today, she says, is a different city. “How do you speak to the entire Hong Kong when you see it so empty? I’m sad about my own city. We are used to seeing vibrancy, glitter … [now] people don’t even visit,” she says.

As for what’s next for Gokson, that is unknown, she says, quoting the 1955 song “Qué Será, Será (Whatever Will Be, Will Be)”, by Jay Livingston and Ray Evans.

“I’ve been approached with many offers but with the entire hospitality industry going through such hardship to find good staff, I will need to rethink whether any of these offers would be worth my while. Qué será, será, as l’ve always said.”