Paradise found for Polynesian cruise passengers after storm detour to ‘uncharted’ islands

In 2018, I travelled solo to the French Polynesian islands. By day I surfed, snorkelled, sailed and swam, stopping only to sleep in an over-the-water bungalow on stilts. On my final night, I lay on my belly, face peering through the glass-bottomed hut as neon fish darted between pylons and coral gardens. That is when I vowed to return some day to this living postcard with my husband. Recently, that day came to fruition by means of transport we vowed to never experience: a cruise ship. Obviously not all cruises are created equal, but the thought of being “landlocked” with hundreds of strangers in a floating hotel just wasn’t our style. For us, cruise ships checked all the wrong boxes. But then there was Windstar, a cruise line of six yachts that accommodate no more than 342 guests. For roughly US$8,000 per person a 12-day Tahitian cruise included round-trip by air to Papeete, pre- and-post cruise accommodation at Hilton and Intercontinental Tahiti Resort, ground transfers, and of course the sailing experience. Once we calculated costs for food, hotels, excursions, and island hopping, Windstar had us booking their Society and Tuamotu Islands cruise. The vessel that would take us there was Star Breeze, an all-suite yacht that underwent a US$250 million renovation in 2020. Despite the fact we would be spending the next 10 days at sea, I could not wait to get the show on the water. Our dockside farewell included a visit from French Polynesia’s president, Moetai Brotherson, during a celebration of food, music and fireworks. Sailing was so smooth, I hadn’t even noticed we were under way. Those first few days, what was not to love? The ship never felt crowded, with a casually elegant clientele that chose boutique amenities over luxury grandeur demanding tuxedos and diamonds at dinner. First stop was Fakarava, the second-largest atoll in the Tuamotu islands. Just 59.5km (37 miles) long, the island is home to roughly 800 residents, including Aldric, who rented us bikes. The islanders pass their time diving for pearls and climbing for coconuts; they export both to stay afloat. Beyond the main village of Rotoava, we rode through rows of palm groves, trunks wrapped in rainbow anchor buoys like gumdrops on sugar straws. We traced the island, pausing at a lighthouse from 1957, and again at the Catholic church, Saint Jean de la Croix. There was an eerie abandoned feeling about Fakarava that intensified as we framed the water’s edge. Back on the ship, we could smell “holiday” in the air, with a South Pacific spirit that came with adults jumping off a cruise ship. In hindsight, the watersports platform was a highlight of the trip, unfolding from the vessel as our drawbridge to freedom. The evening was capped by dinner and a captain’s brief that, ironically, lived out Windstar’s slogan, “180 degrees from ordinary”. His speech marked the unfortunate moment our trip would turn. In the forecast were 160km/h (100mph) winds, 3-metre (10-foot) waves and plenty of rain. A trio of cyclones was in our path and approaching the Society Islands. Captain Simon Terry explained this was his first such experience in 32 years at sea. There were two options: sit anchored in heavy swells off the Society Islands, or sail northeast to the Marquesas where the seas were calm and the skies blue. Once the storm passed, we would salvage what we could of the itinerary by heading nearly 1,000 miles back to the Society Islands. The captain chose the latter, a wise move considering we were in the backwash of the strongest cyclone in 40 years. For some passengers, the idea of heading to the “uncharted” Marquesas gave a sense that we were adventurers. Although the Marquesas were “off” to cruise ships, Windstar’s 36-year reputation in Tahiti gave us the green light to pivot our route. Captain Terry’s relationship with three island mayors would make us the first cruise ship there since 1997. Of the six inhabited islands we would be visiting four, starting with Nuku Hiva. As the setting for 2001’s Survivor, I got it – the dramatic peaks, black-sand bays and lush terrain. In lieu of originally scheduled pearl diving, we snuggled into jeeps for an island tour. The next day, windy conditions made it impossible for tenders to escort guests to Fatu Hiva island. And so, bypassing island No 2, we sailed to our third island, Hiva Oa. Old school buses transported us from a shipyard to the main village of Atuona, where we shopped, hit the beach and visited the largest tiki sculptures in the Pacific. While some toured the cultural centre and resting place of painter Paul Gauguin and Belgian singer Jacques Brel, I instead headed to the water for some surfing and, later, snorkelling. The cyclones had changed everything. The predictability that we feared most about cruise travel was now the one thing we craved most. Nothing was certain, especially for Windstar’s shore excursion team, who booked activities only to rip up tickets by morning. The decree has been lifted. Mo’orea is all yours Passengers learn of the return to their itinerary Even when seas were calm, the waters were too dangerous to swim in because of sharks and jellyfish. Instead, passengers played cards, read books and hit the gym. There was nothing left to do except talk to neighbours. That is how things went during our 10 days of slow living. Despite the crew’s efforts, ports were closed in the Society Islands, with hotels flooded in Bora Bora and a decree issued by France that marinas remain closed. With one day left on our trip, we just wanted to go home. And then the sun came out as if she was shining just for us, followed by an exciting announcement: “The decree has been lifted. Mo’orea is all yours.” The heart-shaped island saved the day – and the trip – with its eight peaks, translucent bays and waters in 50 shades of turquoise. Renting a speedboat, my husband turned corners past velvet mountains and white sands where Mount Rotui towered over Cook’s and Opunohu bays. Over-the-water bungalows reminded me why I first came to the islands, and parrot fish, purple corals and sea turtles reminded me why I returned. Stingrays soared like birds under water and blacktip sharks stirred the sandbanks. Back on shore, we reunited with strangers-turned-friends, toasting to one island’s power to erase three cyclones. We recapped our day as if an entire trip was wrapped in six hours. Rumours spread that Windstar would be fine-tuning our mishap trip into a two-week voyage called “Tahitian Treasures and Magnificent Marquesas”. And we were the brave pioneers. In reality, it wasn’t Mo’orea that saved us, but rather a family-like crew of optimists who served us with joy. And most of all, it was a couple who finally entered a living postcard to swim among neon fish in coral gardens. Marlise Kast-Myers

Paradise found for Polynesian cruise passengers after storm detour to ‘uncharted’ islands

Cruise passengers forced off course by storms get a rare glimpse of the Marquesas Islands before the weather breaks for a postcard finish