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K-pop idol Bibi in a Y2K-inspired outfit. Fashion trends from the early 2000s are far from dead. Experts explain why. Photo: Instagram/@nakedbibi

Y2K fashion won’t die: TikTok, Bella Hadid helping to fuel Gen Z love for mesh tops, miniskirts, ‘Barbiecore’ and more

  • Fuelled by social media platforms including TikTok, the Y2K trend resurfaced as consumers emerged from prolonged pandemic lockdowns – and is still going strong
  • What began with baby tees and straight-leg jeans has expanded to mesh tops, flared trousers and more. ‘Gen Z is not even close to being done,’ says one expert
Fashion

First came the supposed death of skinny jeans. Then, the resurgence of cargo trousers, halter tops and baby tees.

If there is one thing retailers can agree on, it is that Gen Z is hot for the early 2000s fashion trends now booming in popularity.

College interns and young workers are donning wide-legged trousers at the office. The claw clip, a retro hair staple, is back; as are mesh tops, miniskirts and a host of colourful apparel that can make consumers look like they stepped out of a Disney Channel show from 2004.

Fuelled by social media platforms including TikTok, the so-called Y2K trend resurfaced as consumers began attending parties and going out after pandemic lockdowns.
 

What began with hair accessories like butterfly clips and the comeback of straight-leg jeans has expanded to all-denim garments, cargo and flare trousers and everything shiny, among other looks.

Casey Lewis, a New York trend analyst, noted so many micro trends – often tagged with the suffix “core” – cranked up in the past few years that she created a newsletter about them.

4 stores for vintage shopping in hip Tokyo neighbourhood Shimokitazawa

Think “Barbiecore” and “mermaidcore”, which highlight the hot pink reminiscent of Mattel’s Barbie doll or sheer materials with ocean-like hues and sequins.

There is also “coastal granddaughter”, the youthful update that evolved from the “coastal grandmother” trend featuring oversized cardigans and linen sets.

“Gen Z is not even close to being done revisiting these old trends,” says Lewis, whose “After School” newsletter documents youth consumer behaviour. “They are going to dig into every weird trend from way back when and bring it back.”

Socialite Paris Hilton attends a fashion show in Venice, California in 2003. Photo: Getty Images

Retailers, from high-end Nordstrom to discounters and fast fashion outlets, are pushing the styles in campaigns and on shelves. And consumers seem to be eating it up.

Sales of women’s cargo trousers jumped 81 per cent from January to May, the latest month of available data, according to market researcher Circana, which tracks retail purchases.

Low-cost fashion chains H&M and Zara say they are seeing success with biker jackets, denim garments and crop tops. And Chinese fast-fashion retailer Shein, which markets to young women, said its baby tee sales have tripled this year, making them by far the hottest T-shirt style of 2023.

The company also is seeing a big jump in sales of flared trousers, corset tops, metallic-coloured clothing and women’s track suits, which are often made from bright velour fabric reminiscent of some wardrobe choices by US socialite Paris Hilton at the height of her popularity.

 

Style watchers classify it as part of the McBling era, which overlaps with Y2K but emphasises flashier items personified by brands like Juicy Couture and Baby Phat, the streetwear line by television personality and designer Kimora Lee Simmons, which relaunched in 2019.

As always, trends are fuelled by celebrities like model Bella Hadid, whose outfit choices are analysed by fashion magazines and other onlookers. Style also bubbles up directly from consumers via social media, challenging retailers accustomed to runway shows setting the tone.

“There’s not a year’s advanced notice that these trends are going to trickle down,” says Kristen Classi-Zummo, an analyst who covers fashion apparel for Circana.

Bella Hadid in New York in 2021. Her outfit choices are often analysed by fashion magazines and other onlookers. Photo: Getty Images

Retailers, including Macy’s and Walmart, said they are paying closer attention to what pops up on social sites and analysing topics searched by users. But it can be challenging to recognise the difference between trends that just generate attention versus those shoppers will actually buy, says Jake Bjorseth, who runs trndsttrs, an agency helping companies reach young consumers.

Alison Hilzer, Walmart editorial director for fashion apparel, says she is also seeing a lot of micro trends. Some have more longevity than others, making it challenging to figure out when to jump on them.

The discounter, which is marketing Y2K-inspired cargo trousers and Barbiecore, has been speeding up development to get trends to market faster, though the company declined to offer more specific details.
 

Walmart is also following key influencers such as Alix Earle, who has collaborated with A-listers including singer Selena Gomez.

Despite retailers catering to young consumers, many are not really buying. Instead, they are wearing items from each others’ wardrobes, helping fuel a resale market that has tripled since 2020, according to research by Boston Consulting Group and Vestiaire Collective, a French luxury resale site.

Affordability was the primary driver, but shoppers also bought used items to be more planet-friendly.

Yasmeen Bekhit, a 22-year-old graduate student, gravitates toward looser, flowy trousers, flare-legged jeans and tighter shirts like mesh tops. Photo: AP

Yasmeen Bekhit, a 22-year-old graduate student in Manheim, in the US state of Pennsylvania, says she frequents a local thrift shop almost every week and shops at resale sites like Depop, which offers Y2K-heavy options such as baguette bags and baggy jeans.

Bekhit typically gravitates toward looser, flowy trousers, flare-legged jeans and tighter shirts like mesh tops, which help her stay cooler in the summer while wearing a hijab. She is inspired by the way former Disney Channel stars like Gomez and Hilary Duff used to style themselves, she says.

Bekhit holds her Y2K-inspired bag. Photo: AP

Popular TikTok influencer Aliyah Bah, who amassed more than 2.5 million followers by showcasing her Y2K-inspired look known as “Aliyahcore”, also inspires Bekhit.

The look is a bit more alternative, often featuring miniskirts or shorts matched with crop tops, fishnet stockings and furry knee-high boots.

“I really love her way of styling outfits,” Bekhit says.

 

But for everyday, Bekhit says she typically looks up outfit ideas on social media and puts her own twist on them.

Retro hair also is making a splash. Tahlya Loveday, a master stylist at the The Drawing Room New York Salon, says she has seen a lot more ’90s and Y2K trends, like spiky updos and space buns, bouncy blow-dried looks and block colouring, where sections of hair are coloured in contrasting colours.

Gen Z clients embrace those looks more than millennials, she says.

“For Gen Z, this is all new to them,” Circana’s Classi-Zummo says. “They’re really not reliving it. So while we might see it as something that’s cyclical and coming back, they’re kind of getting it for the first time.”

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