Hong Kong show brings Happy Valley past to life, from military camp to Jockey Club home

With its large water supply, it was first considered for development as a business centre. But the plan never went ahead and the area was turned into a burial ground during British rule.

That is just one chapter in Happy Valley’s story.

A new exhibition at Tai Kwun, called “Happy Valley: A Cultural Landscape”, looks at the wider history of the neighbourhood. It also highlights the relationship between people and the environment.

Dr Anita Chung, head of heritage at Tai Kwun and curator of the exhibition, said: “How the valley has transformed into a home for sports clubs and upper-income residents is an interesting part of the city’s history.”

Britain established a military camp in the area when its army arrived in the city in the early 1840s.

But the camp ended up closing due to the swampy conditions and outbreaks of illnesses like malaria.

The British dropped their plans to build a main business area there and shifted their focus to Central and Western district.

The valley was also renamed Happy Valley, a common expression for cemeteries.

By 1846, the British had decided to create a horse racing venue in the area, which would become the Happy Valley Racecourse.

This required a large amount of construction, such as using sand and gravel to add land to the Victoria Harbour waterfront.

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While some things have been added, others have disappeared.

This is the case for Bowrington Canal, which once ran through Wan Chai and Causeway Bay.

Now it has been replaced by Canal Road, home to a popular spot for the “villain hitting” tradition, which is used to get rid of bad luck.

Chung said the spot under one of the road’s bridges where people would pay for the practice was flooded with water many years ago.

“In a way, it resembles Venice in Italy,” she joked. “We never could have imagined that’s what Hong Kong used to be like!”

The changes are about both the past and future. Chung said the exhibition showed “forgotten stories” and offered a different way to look at the history of the area.

Modern-day Happy Valley still has plenty of surprises.

It is home to a huge underground reservoir, equal in size to 24 standard swimming pools, which is designed to prevent floods.

Happy Valley also features many cemeteries representing various religions. Each cemetery has its own style, reflecting the city’s diversity.

The exhibition runs until February 23 next year as part of celebrations for the Hong Kong Jockey Club’s 140th anniversary. The show features rarely seen historical photos, archival maps and film footage.

“By understanding the past, we can shape a better future,” Chung said.

“Heritage does not have to be just history or something that belongs to our grandfather or grandmother. Let’s take a deeper look into the transformation and inspire insights into a sustainable future for the well-being of our communities and the environment.”

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