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Unesco recognises kebaya blouse in largest-ever group nomination from Southeast Asia

As the kebaya gets Unesco’s recognition, what does its global cultural status mean for the future of the garment?

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A group of women wearing traditional kebaya outfits in Melaka, Malaysia. Photo: Cedric Tan

The kebaya, a traditional blouse emblematic of Southeast Asian culture, has recently been placed on Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List, with industry insiders hailing the move to recognise the region’s rich diversity in an era of globalisation.

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The attire was officially recognised on December 4 after a 20-month wait. The bid by five countries – Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and Brunei – is the largest multinational effort of its kind from Southeast Asia to date.

Featuring a front opening with buttons, the kebaya is usually hip-length with ¾ sleeves. It is typically worn with a sarong or batik cloth wrapped from the torso to the ankle, crafted from cotton or silk. Traditionally, it showcases auspicious motifs such as peacocks, peonies, goldfish and phoenixes.

According to Unesco, its “intangible heritage” category is essential to maintaining cultural diversity in the face of change. The kebaya has a long history of showcasing the national identity of several Southeast Asian countries. Its listing as a cultural heritage in Unesco is aimed at boosting collaboration between countries to protect the kebaya’s tradition for future generations.

Cedric Tan, a key figure in Malaysia’s Unesco nomination bid, said: “The safeguarding [of the kebaya tradition] is so important. It could be gone in a second, and that’s why transmission is so important.”

Kebaya outfits from the late 19th to early 20th century in Melaka, Malaysia. Photo: Cedric Tan
Kebaya outfits from the late 19th to early 20th century in Melaka, Malaysia. Photo: Cedric Tan

Tan, a former president of the Persatuan Peranakan Baba Nyonya Kuala Lumpur and Selangor, a society for people of Chinese and Malay/Indonesian heritage, added: “It ensures that we can share it within and beyond the shores of our country, and with it, the understanding about the local customs and traditions of the community.”

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