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Chinese female rock climber Jun Bao tackles love and ‘French Gangster’ in film festival documentary

  • The 20-minute short film ‘Lady First’ dives into the personal and professional life of Chinese climber
  • The documentary, by Hong Kong filmmaker Tony Cheung, is part of No Man’s Land Film Festival

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Chinese rock climber Jun Bao, the protagonist in ‘Lady First’, headlines the No Man’s Land Film Festival in Hong Kong this weekend. Photo: Tony Cheung

Chinese climber Jun Bao, the first female to tackle the difficult “French Gangster” route at the famed White Mountain in Yangshuo, China, headlines the No Man’s Land Film Festival in Hong Kong on July 11.

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Jun is featured in the 20-minute documentary “Lady First”, directed by Hong Kong rock climber Tony Cheung, who spent two years making the film.

“Yangshuo is the centre of the universe of climbing (in China),” said Cheung. “Climbers from all around the world go to Yangshuo to test their limits. They live together, climb together, rest and cook together. It’s like a small community, I would say, quite like a cult.”

The film follows Jun as she attempts the highly technical and difficult route 5.14A/B on White Mountain in Guangxi region. It also dives into how she fell in love with fellow climber Liu Jia.

 
Cheung, who quit his regular job in 2015 to pursue climbing full-time, injured his ACL in 2016 and took to documenting climbers in China to remain close to the sport.
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