bodyType

customContents

entityId

printArticlePageQuery

filter

article

body

urlAlias

articleSectionsContent

articleSeoArticle

articleSourceHeaderArticle

contentSchemaRenderContent

contentSubHeadlineContent

contentHeadlineContent

mainImagePrintArticleArticle

authorBlockPrintArticleArticle

contentSponsorTagContent

articlePianoPaywallContent

scmpYoutubeContent

hooksTrackPageViewArticle

query printArticlePageQuery(
  $entityId: String!
  $customContents: [CustomContentInput]
  $bodyType: BodyFormatTypeEnum
) {
  article(filter: {entityId: $entityId}) {
    entityId
    body(customContents: $customContents, type: $bodyType) {
      json
    }
    urlAlias
    ...articleSectionsContent
    ...articleSeoArticle_3o8td4
    ...articleSourceHeaderArticle
    ...contentSchemaRenderContent
    ...contentSubHeadlineContent
    ...contentHeadlineContent
    ...mainImagePrintArticleArticle
    ...authorBlockPrintArticleArticle
    ...contentSponsorTagContent
    ...articlePianoPaywallContent
    ...scmpYoutubeContent
    ...hooksTrackPageViewArticle
    id
  }
}

fragment articlePianoPaywallContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...hooksPaywallPromiseContent
}

fragment articleSectionsContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  sections {
    value {
      ...helpersCheckIfNewsSectionInFirstIndexSection
      ...entityLink
      name
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment articleSeoArticle_3o8td4 on Article {
  ...hooksArticleSeoArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersGetArticleTypeArticle
  entityId
  publishedDate
  updatedDate
  summary {
    text
  }
  subHeadline {
    text
  }
  body(customContents: $customContents, type: $bodyType) {
    text
  }
  keywords
  sections {
    value {
      name
      id
    }
  }
  topics {
    name
    entityId
    id
  }
  urlAlias
  authors {
    name
    id
  }
  images {
    style(filter: {style: "768x768"}) {
      url
    }
  }
  readingTime
}

fragment articleSourceHeaderArticle on Article {
  urlAlias
  ...entityLink
}

fragment authorBlockPrintArticleArticle on Article {
  ...defaultArticleDateContent
  ...authorNamesArticle
}

fragment authorNameAuthor on Author {
  ...entityLink
  name
  entityUuid
}

fragment authorNamesArticle on Article {
  authorLocations
  authors {
    entityId
    location
    ...authorNameAuthor
    id
  }
}

fragment blockquoteQuoteContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...contentShareWidgetContent
}

fragment checkersCheckContentContainsStarlingImageContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment contentHeadlineContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  headline
  socialHeadline
  ...contentHeadlineTagContent
  ...helpersUseContentSponsorContent
}

fragment contentHeadlineTagContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...hooksContentHeadlineTagContent
}

fragment contentNewsletterWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    relatedNewsletters {
      ...helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter
      id
    }
    id
  }
  sections {
    value {
      relatedNewsletters {
        ...helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter
        id
      }
      id
    }
  }
  ... on Article {
    relatedNewsletters {
      ...helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment contentSchemaRenderContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...blockquoteQuoteContent
  ...imageContent
  ...inlineWidgetContent
  ...photoGalleryWidgetContent
  ...scmpYoutubeContent
}

fragment contentShareWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  entityId
  urlAlias
  shortUrl
  socialHeadline
  headline
}

fragment contentSponsorTagContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...helpersUseContentSponsorContent
}

fragment contentSubHeadlineContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  subHeadline {
    json
  }
  summary {
    json
  }
  ...contentSchemaRenderContent
}

fragment defaultArticleDateContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...hooksArticleDateUtilsContent
}

fragment entityLink on BaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias {
  __isBaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias: __typename
  __typename
  entityId
  entityUuid
  urlAlias
  urlRedirect {
    toUrl
    id
  }
  application {
    entityId
    id
  }
  ... on Section {
    fullSectionPath {
      entityId
      id
    }
    parentSection
  }
  ...helpersAppBarVariantBase
  ...helpersApplicationBase
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusArticle
  ...helpersStyleSectionContent
}

fragment helpersAppBarVariantBase on BaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias {
  __isBaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias: __typename
  ...helpersCheckIsLiveArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusPage
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesPage
  ...helpersCheckIsPostMagazineArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsStyleArticle
  ...helpersSectionContent
  ...helpersStyleSectionContent
}

fragment helpersApplicationBase on BaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias {
  __isBaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias: __typename
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesPage
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusPage
}

fragment helpersCheckIfNewsSectionInFirstIndexSection on Section {
  name
}

fragment helpersCheckIsAmpEnabledArticle on Article {
  entityId
  types {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
  disableOffPlatformContent
  sponsorType
  published
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
}

fragment helpersCheckIsLiveArticle on Article {
  flattenTypeIds
  liveArticle {
    status
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsMainTopicContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPlusArticle on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ... on Article {
    paywallTypes {
      entityUuid
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPlusPage on Page {
  urlAlias
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPostMagazineArticle on Article {
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle on Article {
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPostiesPage on Page {
  urlAlias
}

fragment helpersCheckIsStyleArticle on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersGetArticleTypeArticle on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ... on Article {
    types {
      value {
        entityId
        id
      }
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter on Newsletter {
  entityId
  name
  alternativeName
  description {
    text
  }
  summary {
    text
  }
  homepageDescription {
    text
  }
}

fragment helpersSanitizeArticleTypeEntityIdsArticle on Article {
  types {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersSanitizeAuthorTypesArticle on Article {
  authors {
    types
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersSanitizedAuthorEntityIdsArticle on Article {
  authors {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersSectionContent on Section {
  fullSectionPath {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersStyleSectionContent on Section {
  fullSectionPath {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersUseContentSponsorContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    entityId
    sponsor {
      ...sponsorTagSponsor
      name
      type
      id
    }
    id
  }
  ... on Article {
    sponsorType
  }
  ...helpersCheckIsMainTopicContent
}

fragment hooksArticleDateUtilsContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  createdDate
  publishedDate
  updatedDate
}

fragment hooksArticleSeoArticle on Article {
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostMagazineArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsStyleArticle
  ...hooksContentHeadlineTagContent
  ...helpersCheckIsAmpEnabledArticle
  entityId
  headline
  socialHeadline
  types {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
  authors {
    entityId
    id
  }
  images {
    generic_og: style(filter: {style: "og_image_scmp_generic"}) {
      url
    }
    styles(filter: {styles: ["og_image_posties_article", "og_postmag", "og_image_style", "og_image_scmp_analysis", "og_image_scmp_explainer", "og_image_scmp_editorial", "og_image_scmp_fact_check", "og_image_scmp_debate", "og_image_scmp_live", "og_image_scmp_obituary", "og_image_scmp_opinion", "og_image_scmp_review", "og_image_scmp_series", "og_image_scmp_generic"]}) {
      url
      style
    }
    type
  }
  urlAlias
}

fragment hooksContentHeadlineTagContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  __typename
  ... on Article {
    types {
      value {
        name
        entityId
        description {
          text
        }
        id
      }
    }
    ...helpersCheckIsStyleArticle
  }
  flag
  sections {
    value {
      name
      id
    }
  }
  ...hooksContentHelperContent
}

fragment hooksContentHelperContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...helpersSanitizeArticleTypeEntityIdsArticle
  ...helpersSanitizeAuthorTypesArticle
  ...helpersSanitizedAuthorEntityIdsArticle
  flag
}

fragment hooksPaywallPromiseContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  entityId
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
}

fragment hooksTrackPageViewArticle on Article {
  entityId
  publishedDate
  headline
  sections {
    value {
      name
      id
    }
  }
  urlAlias
  authors {
    name
    id
  }
  entityUuid
}

fragment imageContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  headline
  ...checkersCheckContentContainsStarlingImageContent
}

fragment inlineWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...contentNewsletterWidgetContent
}

fragment mainImagePrintArticleArticle on Article {
  images {
    title
    url
    isSlideshow
    size_652x446: style(filter: {style: "652x446"}) {
      url
    }
  }
}

fragment photoGalleryDialogContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  __typename
  ...contentShareWidgetContent
}

fragment photoGalleryWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...photoGalleryDialogContent
}

fragment scmpYoutubeContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  entityId
  urlAlias
  publishedDate
}

fragment sponsorTagSponsor on Sponsor {
  name
  type
  images {
    url
  }
}


sections

types

disableOffPlatformContent

sponsorType

published

headline

socialHeadline

authors

images

publishedDate

updatedDate

summary

subHeadline

keywords

topics

readingTime

authorLocations

entityUuid

Bien Perez

For the first 45 years of its existence, handbags and accessories maker Coach only sold its products in the United States.
But the New York-listed company, which started as a small family-owned business in 1941, has since  become more aggressive in expanding its international operations. 
It posted revenue of US$4.16 billion  in its fiscal year ended July 2, opened its first European flagship store in London last September, and became the first US-incorporated company to list on the Hong Kong stock exchange in December. 
Chairman and chief executive Lew Frankfort expects the dual-listing strategy to help 'raise awareness of the Coach brand among investors and consumers in the China market', which includes the mainland, Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan.  
'We believe China will surpass Japan as our No2 market within the next few years. We're looking forward to that as a milestone,' said Frankfort, who has  transformed Coach from a cottage-industry manufacturer of leather goods into what he calls the premier American brand for 'affordable luxury'.
When Frankfort joined Coach in 1979 as vice-president of new business development, the company's annual sales were just US$6 million. He spearheaded initiatives to generate sales outside the US upon his appointment as  company  president in 1985, when it was acquired by global consumer-goods maker Sara Lee.  
By the time Frankfort was named chairman and chief executive in 1995, Coach was rapidly strengthening efforts to broaden product offerings, modernise stores, accelerate retail expansion, improve operational efficiency and grow the brand's international presence. 
The firm acquired its retail business on the mainland and in Hong Kong and Macau from luxury goods distributor ImagineX in September 2008 and its Taiwan retail business from another distributor last December. It also has directly-owned retail operations in Japan and Singapore. 
To mark its 70th anniversary, Coach plans to have  100 or more stores on the mainland by the end of this year.  It also expects to generate  revenue of at least US$300 million from the greater China market in its fiscal year to June. 'We are building a multi-channel distribution model in China, including flagships, retail stores, shop-in-shops and factory stores,' Frankfort said.
In an interview with the Post, Frankfort talked about what it takes to shepherd the growth of Coach for 32 years and build up its business in the world's second-largest economy.
 How has your management  approach changed after more than three decades with Coach?
My values have remained the same. So has my passion for the brand, belief in the product, integrity in everything we do, our strong work ethic and drive for excellence. There has been a consistency in the way I think about the journey, the brand and the product. 
But I've had to reinvent myself several times in order to be successful. I say that because when the business was extremely small, I had to do virtually everything. As the business became larger, more complex and more diverse, I needed to recruit senior people with the skill sets and similar values who I could empower.
Today, I'm more of a conductor of an orchestra where everything has to be in the right motion. Part of my time is spent towards new initiatives and new businesses. I also spend a considerable amount of time coaching and training my next level [of senior managers] and two levels down. I have a system of rigorous business reviews and monthly meetings.  
 Which initiatives helped support your expansion in Asia?
We run our business through a blend of magic and logic. The magic is in the touch and feel that lead to great design and products, as well as strong, impactful advertising and beautiful stores. The knowledge, or logic, comes from a rigorous system that we apply to become well  informed about anything we're going to do before we do it. There's a term called 'best practices'. So we always learn as much as we can to see who has been successful and how they've been successful, as well as who has failed and the types of pitfalls they've experienced. 
When we were expanding into Japan, we studied several different models of how people expanded [their business] in that country. Ultimately, we decided to find a single partner that had a very broad distribution network. In 1988, we entered into an agreement with Mitsukoshi, one of the six leading department store groups in Japan. The company became our partner and they spent a great deal of attention to create a dedicated team to build Coach.  
We developed a five-year plan in which Mitsukoshi would introduce Coach shops across their chain of 30 stores. We designed the shops, controlled the image of the brand, pricing and much of the [staff] training. They provided the real estate and the staffing. So that was an early way to get started in Japan, and we had great success with Mitsukoshi.
 Did your experience in Japan help guide your expansion  in China?
What we saw in the mid-1980s in Japan was an absence of shopping centres and speciality stores. Most people shopped in department stores. Understanding where consumers shopped and how they buy imported goods was fundamental to choosing a premier department store partner in Japan. We actually worked briefly with [Dickson Concepts chairman] Dickson Poon when we started to look at China. We found out that Hong Kong had a limited number of department stores and most brands opened their own speciality stores. On the mainland, we saw a mix of department stores and speciality stores in the major cities.  
So we wanted to work with a group that was seasoned in developing imported brands successfully across multiple [retail] channels. [Hong Kong-based distributor] ImagineX had successfully worked with [Italian fashion house] Gucci, who spoke very highly of them. So we entered into an agreement with ImagineX to introduce Coach through a multi-channel model.  
So each market requires a different solution. One needs to be curious and knowledge-driven. If you think you can just export from your market a [specific] business model, you're more than likely to fail. 
 What helps determine which marketing campaigns work for consumers in the big metropolises and those in smaller mainland cities? 
Beijing and Shanghai are cosmopolitan and sophisticated cities, where many in the population travel a great deal. They are more exposed to international culture. In  secondary and tertiary cities, we speak with consumers about how they obtain information on brands and  think about shopping. They've said that the internet - primarily  social networking sites - plays a role in shaping their views and values. They've also talked about visits to the major cities to look at what's stylish. Based on how consumers obtain information and how this shapes their views, we try to influence them accordingly. 
 How challenging is recruiting staff on the mainland? 
It's not a simple question to answer because we have applied different methods [of recruitment] to different needs. We've had a very large challenge recruiting field staff to run our stores and to supervise groups of stores. There isn't a tradition, particularly in the secondary cities, of providing high service levels. So two years ago, our team here began a campaign to recruit the better graduates from Chinese universities. In the last 15 months, we have hired over 100 college graduates while competing against investment banking and consulting firms also looking for people. That [competition] has been enormously helpful [to target the right candidates]. 
We also created incentive programmes. We have received approval from the mainland government to provide 'tandem equity' for our store managers. It is a way for us to attract talent. We provide them with the ability to earn the equivalent of shares in the company, which they need to sell when these vest. 
At a more senior level, we do a great amount of recruitment from other companies. We work hard to be seen as a preferred employer in terms of work environment, compensation, equity, career opportunity and learning culture. We have a great deal of success in luring competent people away from other companies.
 As a purveyor of 'affordable luxury' goods, how has Coach fostered a culture that allows designers to create compelling products at attractive prices?
It is a group effort. Since we're a very knowledge-driven company, we're very transparent with our designers. All of our designers understand the cost of a product, the price we're trying to design into and what objectives we're going to achieve.  There are a lot of checks and balances that gives us a much higher level of predictability than many other companies in our space.
We have a very senior creative director, Reed Krakoff, who has been with us for 16 years. He is very commercial and not temperamental. So we're very fortunate that he is cost-sensitive and wants us to be successful commercially.  We also have active merchants who partner with the designers, ...  work within their individual markets and  play a role in shaping the briefs [on trends and raw materials] before we even contemplate what we are going to make.
70%
The proportion of Coach's sales worldwide the US accounted for last year. Japan was the second-largest market, on 18 per cent



The Coach driver's exciting journey