Geneva is the centre of sophistication and wonder when it comes to timepieces
Watchmaking skills of Huguenots fleeing religious persecution in their native France in the 16th century helped transform postcard-pretty Geneva into a global manufacturing powerhouse
Harry Lime stated in the 1949 classic film noir The Third Man: “... in Italy for 30 years ... they had warfare, terror, murder, and bloodshed, but they produced Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and the Renaissance. In Switzerland ... they had 500 years of democracy and peace, and what did they produce? The cuckoo clock”. Obviously, this nefarious character had never been to the second most populous city in the central European country, postcard-pretty Geneva, or he wouldn’t have sold it so short.
Situated in the southwestern most corner on the banks of the eponymous lake (also referred to as Lac Léman), an engaging way to find out about a metropolis that dates back to Roman times, is in Maison Tavel. Built in the 12th century but reconstructed after a 1334 fire, Geneva’s oldest house is now the fascinating five-floored, Museum of Urban History and Daily Life. Inside is a treasure trove of exhibits and artefacts from the medieval era right up to the 1900s including doors, tiles and the blade of a guillotine.
Rather than losing your head, an edifice that’s a head-turner, is the 12th century Cathédrale St-Pierre. It’s around the corner from the museum, and also in the Old Town (Vieille Ville) – a delightful milieu of winding, cobbled streets and romantic quads full of cafes and antique shops. In the 1500s, John Calvin used the imposing temple (and the tiny chapel next door) as a base to help to bring about the Protestant Reformation. A must-do while one is in this building, is a trip to the archaeological site in the basement. Expect to see exquisite 4th-century mosaics, monk’s cells and the tomb of an Allobrogian chieftain.