How watches from Chanel, Chaumet, Piaget, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels catch the light – with diamonds, sapphires and rubies

Nothing is as precious as time, and watchmakers and jewellers often try to emphasise this by adding gems and jewels to their timepieces. Whether it is a lot of shine or just a few sparkles, diamonds, sapphires, rubies and other gemstones liven up a design and catch light in such a way that they command our attention.

The latest designs from luxury jewellers and watchmakers prove that, while gemstones are irresistible, more is not always better. Some designs, with just the right touch of light reflection, become instantly irresistible, while others benefit from the allure of an intricate full pavé of gemstones.

Examples of the former are the latest timepieces from Chanel and Chaumet. Chanel is constantly reinventing its flagship watch, the J12. What was initially a ceramic timepiece now sees numerous interpretations. From different gem settings to new cases and bracelet materials, the J12 goes through a true metamorphosis this year with the J12 X-ray and the J12 Paradoxe Diamonds.

The J12 X-ray has a transparent sapphire case and bracelet, with white baguette diamonds on the bezel and a skeletonised dial to complete the icy look. The J12 Paradoxe Diamonds maintains the J12’s signature black ceramic case and bracelet. White baguette diamonds set along a section of the case and dial on the crown side bring a stark contrast to the otherwise dark silhouette. A manual-winding movement brings life to the X-ray reference while the Paradoxe Diamonds runs on an automatic movement.

Chanel’s Mademoiselle Privé collection of jewellery watches includes a pendant secret watch inspired by Gabrielle Chanel herself. A total of 771 diamonds along with pearls and onyx beads are used to create the Coco Sautoir timepiece. The pendant watch is a bejewelled figurine of the fashion icon, designed to be worn on a long chain.

Launched last year, Chaumet’s Boléro watch features classic round curves paired with a gold link bracelet. The French jeweller brings just a hint of sparkle to the dial of the watch, presenting a new reference this year in rose gold with a dial that is void of hourmarkers and covered entirely in diamonds.

High-impact gem-setting makes serious mechanical machines like Bulgari’s Serpenti Seduttori even more irresistible. A tourbillon is housed inside this small 22mm x 18mm case; a manual movement with a 40-hour power reserve keeps the piece ticking. The high-complication, high-jewellery creation is encrusted entirely with diamonds; the case and bracelet radiate with 558 diamonds totalling 7.89 carats.

Maisons with the capability of injecting fine artisan know-how of gem-making into their timepieces often do so with a stunning effect.

Piaget prefers to showcase its goldsmithing and jewel-setting skills when bringing new inspiration to its Limelight collection.