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Korean restaurant Atomix serves superb 10-course tasting menu and history lessons

Twigim – Scottish langoustine, seasoned with lemon zest and perilla leaf and sheathed in a tempura that shatters on contact with the teeth – is the third offering served on the 10-course tasting menu at the New York fine dining Korean restaurant, Atomix. Photos: The Washington Post
Twigim – Scottish langoustine, seasoned with lemon zest and perilla leaf and sheathed in a tempura that shatters on contact with the teeth – is the third offering served on the 10-course tasting menu at the New York fine dining Korean restaurant, Atomix. Photos: The Washington Post

Husband and wife’s memorable ‘choose your own chopsticks’ eatery gives guests small illustrated cards to explain dishes’ preparations and inspirations

The article was written by Tom Sietsema of The Washington Post

The woman sitting next to me takes a bite of what has been introduced as “twigim” and says what I am thinking after I spoon into the same dish at one of the most bewitching restaurants to open in the New York borough of Manhattan in seasons.

“Oh, my God!”

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Twigim, the third offering in a 10-course tasting menu at the tranquil Atomix in Midtown East, showcases Scottish langoustine, seasoned with lemon zest and perilla (shiso) leaf and sheathed in a tempura that shatters on contact with the teeth.

 

Riding shotgun is a pale green dollop of sea urchin creamed with nasturtium, lemon juice and yondu, a vegetable extract that, like soy sauce, acts as a flavour bump.

Powdered chopi adds a numbing citric punch. Before pepper was widely available in Korea, chopi, from little green pods, gave the cuisine some zap.

I know all this not just because it washed over my tongue earlier this summer, but also because each course at Atomix is preceded by an illustrated, wallet-size card explaining the dish and its preparation, sometimes inspiration.

At the conclusion of dinner, guests depart with a dozen or so beautiful cards, including a note from the staff, in a sturdy paper packet.