Yves Saint Laurent’s Eiffel Tower show at Paris Fashion Week: Anthony Vaccarello’s women’s autumn/winter collection is sleek and classic with a daring masculine touch

Mar 4 , 2022

Models present creations from the autumn/winter 2022-23 women’s collection by Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week, on March 1, with the runway laid out at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. Photo: EPA-EFE

The Kering-owned label closed the second day of shows in Paris, which caps a month of key fashion events in New York, London and Milan

The collection was inspired by the chunky jewellery and masculine lines favoured by poet Nancy Cunard while French DJ Sebastian set the tone on the night

French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent has been a timelessly classic choice of the well-dressed for decades, so when it hosted an evening runway presentation at Paris Fashion Week on March 1, it was no surprise to see a series of slender cocktail gowns delivered from a catwalk overlooked by the Eiffel Tower itself.

Models present creations from the autumn/winter 2022-23 women’s collection by Saint Laurent on March 1, as part of Paris Fashion Week 2022. Photo: EPA-EFE

Long-legged models strode across a pale pink carpet in sleek, full-length dresses and wrapped in sharp-shouldered tuxedos and oversized faux fur coats as electronic music by French DJ Sebastian played.

Faux fur was much in evidence in the autumn/winter 2022-23 women’s collection by Saint Laurent on March 1, as part of Paris Fashion Week 2022. Photo: EPA-EFE

A rare all-white look from the autumn/winter 2022-23 women’s collection by Saint Laurent on March 1, as part of Paris Fashion Week 2022. Photo: EPA-EFE

In his show notes, creative director Anthony Vaccarello cited the style of 20th century anti-fascist poet Nancy Cunard, known to favour chunky jewellery and masculine silhouettes.

In presenting the autumn/winter women’s collection by Saint Laurent, creative director Anthony Vaccarello cited the influence of poet Nancy Cunard, who liked to wear more masculine looks. Photo: EPA-EFE

Detail of a leather jacket from the autumn/winter 2022-23 women’s collection by Saint Laurent, seen on the runway on March 1, during Paris Fashion Week. Photo: EPA-EFE

Echoing her look, some outfits were accessorised with stacks of large bracelets or prominent earrings while long coats and low-waisted jackets were worn with the collars turned up.

Soft fabric flowers pinned to dresses and jackets added a touch of romance to the sombre palette of mostly black with touches of ivory and light brown.

Sleek black dresses were a dominant theme of the autumn/winter 2022-23 Saint Laurent women’s collection on March 1, as part of Paris Fashion Week 2022. Photo: EPA-EFE