Paris Fashion Week: Kenzo’s ‘hot ticket’ debut; Dior’s #metoo statement, ‘consent’; and Lanvin’s manifesto – past, present, always
Lanvin’s Bruno Sialelli captures the exuberance of the Swinging Twenties, while Dior’s runway show appears to make a #metoo statement, and designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista of LVMH’s Kenzo chooses an extreme setting
All eyes at Paris Fashion Week on February 26 were on the debut of Kenzo’s new designer, who put guests attending the freezing, winter morning show inside a sweltering greenhouse. In his extreme choice of setting, Felipe Oliveira Baptista thus ensured that his collection – one that took the house in a welcome pared-down direction – was literally and metaphorically the hottest ticket of the day. Here are some highlights from the ready-to-wear 2020 shows.
Lanvin travels the decades
Lanvin delved into fashion history for an encyclopedic collection.
The world’s oldest continually-running couture house will always have roots in the 1920s heyday of its pioneering founder, Jeanne Lanvin. And on February 26, creative director Bruno Sialelli nicely captured the exuberance of that decade, with its dropped-hem flapper styles and decorative froth.
Bijoux de fantaisie – artisanal costume jewellery – and buttons in the shape of the Lanvin’s signature 1927 fragrance bottle were meticulous in their detail and reinforced the Swinging Twenties vibe.
Yet Siallelli only used that as a starting point as he wove in and out of styles that spanned the 20th century and beyond in a beautiful and well-executed display.
Loose silk gowns and coats were defined by prints inspired by the house’s 1949 collaboration on a book featuring watercolours and expressive calligrams. While, the repeated use of checks touched on one of the big trends of 2020.