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What is Hong Kong’s most traditional dish? … and no, it’s not dim sum

A bowl of traditional poon choi – a dish that is popular among diners during the Lunar New Year festival – served at The Royal Garden Chinese Restaurant, in Kowloon, Hong Kong.
A bowl of traditional poon choi – a dish that is popular among diners during the Lunar New Year festival – served at The Royal Garden Chinese Restaurant, in Kowloon, Hong Kong.

Today the iconic food, reportedly first served to a Song emperor as he fled the Mongols, is shared by friends and family, including over Lunar New Year

People that have heard of poon choi know that is a coveted dish originating from Hong Kong’s New Territories – the area north of Kowloon that many indigenous inhabitants of our city call home.

Villagers in Ng Ka, in Kam Tim, New Territories, in Hong Kong prepare to enjoy a poon choi feast to celebrate the Lunar New Year festival. Photo: David Poon.
Villagers in Ng Ka, in Kam Tim, New Territories, in Hong Kong prepare to enjoy a poon choi feast to celebrate the Lunar New Year festival. Photo: David Poon.

Poon choi was traditionally prepared in villages only to eat at meals celebrating events such as weddings, important birthdays and of course, Lunar New Year.

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However, as time went on people were able to enjoy the taste of the New Territories dish at villages all-year-round and eventually, restaurant groups, hotels and other caterers were able to replicate the recipe and it quickly became a hit around the new year festival.

Poon choi traditionally includes carefully presented layers of different ingredients, including prawns, abalone and sea cucumber. Photo: Dynasty 8 at Conrad Macao, Cotai Central
Poon choi traditionally includes carefully presented layers of different ingredients, including prawns, abalone and sea cucumber. Photo: Dynasty 8 at Conrad Macao, Cotai Central

For the uninitiated, poon choi features all the fantastic ingredients you sample during a Chinese banquet placed together in a huge basin or bowl.

Consisting of at least eight different main ingredients, including chicken and pork, these are actually layered and skilfully structured as a labour of love, rather than seemingly included at random.

The flavours of the dish increase in complexity as you make your way down the bowl.

The best layers lie on top for aesthetic reasons and also because of the Chinese tradition of serving the best to your guests first.

This would typically have meant seafood, chicken or prawns, but as the choice of ingredients available in Hong Kong has increased over time, abalone and sea cucumbers are now showcased as well.

Lisa Cam
Lisa is the host and producer of SCMP's Eat Drink Asia video series and enjoys reporting all things about food, travel and anything in between. At the end of the day, she likes nothing more than kicking back with a good dose of true crime podcasts and cooking tried-and-true recipes from sticky old cookbooks.