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The return of the three-hand watch: dress watches from smaller brands like H. Moser & Cie embrace simplicity, focusing on design and colour, as Rolex, Omega and other big names explore minimalism

Just the time (from left): Furlan Marri Disco Volante, Atelier Wen Perceiption Millesime Mu 睦, H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cntre Seconds Citrus Green. Photos: Handout
Just the time (from left): Furlan Marri Disco Volante, Atelier Wen Perceiption Millesime Mu 睦, H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cntre Seconds Citrus Green. Photos: Handout
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Free of complications, dress watches from big names and smaller brands shine the spotlight on materials, colours and design elements for visually stunning results

If 2023 saw brands dip their toes in smaller, understated options for the wrist, 2024 is the year brands fully embraced the movement. Vacheron Constantin celebrated the 20th anniversary of the Patrimony, Rolex gave us a platinum version of last year’s gangbuster 1908 in April, Jaeger-LeCoultre recently released a Reverso monoface that saw them veer ever closer to the model’s original 1930’s dimensions and Omega gave us a beautiful black-dialled Seamaster Aqua Terra (sans teak stripes even), to name just four.

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green. Photo: Handout
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green. Photo: Handout

This year even the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) introduced a time only category that celebrates the year’s best dials designed around a simple three-hand configuration. Besides the many major names and the GPHG’s nominations, many other brands went for understated ways to spotlight core elements of watch design, such as materials, subtlety and build quality.

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Paulin OH no Modul Automatic. Photo: Handout
Paulin OH no Modul Automatic. Photo: Handout

Colours were the weapon of choice for many brands looking to make their three-hand designs pop. On top of a smorgasbord of Streamliners with stunning dials, H. Moser & Cie gave us the Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green that stood out for its bold colours. Scottish brand Paulin, known for C-shaped cases evoking the 1970s, made its OH no Modul Automatic jump with a choice of red or blue numerals, epitomising the idea of colouring outside the lines.

Atelier Wen Perception Millesime Mu 睦 in titanium. Photo: Handout
Atelier Wen Perception Millesime Mu 睦 in titanium. Photo: Handout

The Atelier Wen Perception Millésime Mù goes a step further, combining a stunning purple guilloche dial with full titanium – or tantalum, for three lucky collectors – construction.

Furlan Marri Disco Volante. Photo: Handout
Furlan Marri Disco Volante. Photo: Handout

Furlan Marri’s Disco Volante revisited a design language in three colours where the watch lugs are hidden under the “flying saucer” of the watch case – a design element that hasn’t been seen since the 70s with brands like Audemars Piguet and Piaget.

Bernhard Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer. Photo: Handout
Bernhard Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer. Photo: Handout

A traditional three-hand design can also express precision watchmaking, even in independent circles. The Bernhard Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer won GPHG’s Chronometry Prize for going the extra mile to gain its observatory chronometer certification. The piece’s CIC movement was already COSC-certified, but was then put through its paces for 15 days at observatories in Besancon, Glashütte and Geneva to show it had attained this even higher standard.