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Jewellery

Chain jewellery with bold links is making a starry comeback – in both silver and gold

STORYFrancesca Fearon
Chain links are back in, the bigger and bolder, the better, as on this Lily Gabriella Nexus 
Link bracelet. Photo: Handout
Chain links are back in, the bigger and bolder, the better, as on this Lily Gabriella Nexus Link bracelet. Photo: Handout
Jewellery

Luxury designers like Annoushka Ducas are redefining their statement pieces to meet the growing trend for bolder wearable chains

In September, Annoushka Ducas visited Hong Kong to reconnect with her team and clients at her Mandarin Oriental boutique and showcase her new Knuckle Silver collection, an evolution of her original yellow gold Knuckle collection launched in 2023.

In a full-circle moment, this is the first time that she has worked in silver since she sold the Links of London business that she co-founded in 1990 – Ducas came up with the brand’s first line while living in Hong Kong. She launched her eponymous brand in 2009 and is famed for her fine jewellery and colourful pavé set charms, that she said are “to be lived with and played with”.

Annoushka Knuckle Silver collection. Photo: Handout
Annoushka Knuckle Silver collection. Photo: Handout
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However, Ducas spotted a growing trend in the market for bolder wearable chains. The Knuckle collection grew, she said, from clients wanting “something unembellished, more stripped back”.

“I had always wanted to design and create a signature chain that was bold and hardworking and yet has that sense of craftsmanship that defines everything we do,” she added.

The pieces are designed to move and become part of the wearer’s everyday life no matter what their size – and some are big. “It was really inspired by the flexibility of our own joints – the natural movement and strength,” Ducas explained. “Each link is designed to move and adapt so you can clip, unclip, layer and transform it from a necklace to a bracelet.”

Pomellato Iconica Extreme bracelet. Photo: Handout
Pomellato Iconica Extreme bracelet. Photo: Handout

Annoushka was ahead of the curve in spotting this trend – for the past few seasons, statement chains have been making a big impression on the catwalk. Roberto Cavalli added bold gold necklaces to his evening wear while chains dangled like pendants from the necklines of knitwear at Prada. Looking ahead to spring, Hermès has revived its Chaine d’Ancre collection in high jewellery, carrying it over into its ready-to-wear for next season by wrapping short anchor chain necklaces around neckerchiefs.

Large link chains have a 1980s sculptural vibe, shiny and luxurious like Pomellato’s Iconica range and especially its new Collezione 1967. The high jewellery line elevates the link design even further, studding big chain necklaces and bracelets with diamonds or a rainbow of coloured gemstones. The collection makes a powerful link to Pomellato’s roots and its decades-long history of creating inventive chains.
Pomellato’s Iconica range. Photo: Handout
Pomellato’s Iconica range. Photo: Handout
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