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4 best luxury watches with Chinese characters on the dial: from Hublot’s Classic Fusion Singapore Special Edition to the new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Xiali Calendar, and Bovet’s 19th century piece

The Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar special 2022 Lunar New Year edition features several artful subdials in Chinese characters. Photo: Handout

Swiss watch maison Parmigiani Fleurier recently opened its first Hong Kong boutique, celebrating the occasion on March 7 by hosting a lunch and unveiling a prototype of their Tonda PF Xiali Calendar teased since January this year.

The piece is set to be one of a unique class of watches, as Chinese characters feature extremely rarely among luxury watches – though there are plenty of Chinese zodiac pieces every year. As rare as they are, we take a closer look at some of our favourite uses of Chinese characters in watches below.

1. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Xiali Calendar

The complex and detailed Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Xiali Calendar prototype is a sight to behold. Photo: Handout
One of the more complicated watches on this list, not only does Parmigiani Fleurier’s timepiece feature extremely detailed characters, it does so in a way that reflects the needs of the Chinese watch wearer. It shows a Chinese calendar accounting for short (29 days) or long (30 days) months, the solar term, plus detailed year information including zodiac and element. Complete with a guilloche dial finish, any enthusiast of high horology and Chinese culture owes themselves this piece at US$62,750 retail.

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2. Bovet Chinese Zodiac 24-hour pocket watch

Bovet’s Chinese Zodiac 24-hour silver open-faced keyless pocket watch has a history in China. Photo: Handout

Another Swiss house boasting deep connections to China is Bovet, whose relationship with the Chinese timekeeping market runs as far back as the 19th century, when its enamelled pieces made their way to the Qing court.

Not too much is known about this 24-hour, 56mm pocket watch from the 19th century, besides the fact that the enamel dial is housed in a silver case. A similar piece numbered 946 with a movement signed “Bovet Fleurier”, the formal name of the house as it was chartered in 1822 by its founder Edouard Bovet, was a part of the Bovet 1822 exhibit celebrating the house’s bicentennial. The piece pictured above was auctioned by Sotheby’s in June last year for US$3,185.

3. Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar

Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar Rabbit Edition. Photo: Handout

Another of the growing number of watchmakers celebrating Chinese culture includes Blancpain, who has seldom spared us annual editions of this Chinese calendar piece. This may just be the only other grand complication watch that features a moonphase and several subdials indicating both Chinese and Gregorian calendars, all set on a beautiful grand feu enamel dial. This year’s edition, announced in December 2022, is limited to 50 pieces starting at US$87,200.

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4. Hublot Classic Fusion Singapore Special Edition

Hublot made just 30 of its Classic Fusion Singapore Special Edition watch. Photo: 2ToneVintage
As rare as Chinese characters are in high horology, this Hublot piece may be even rarer still. In celebration of the Singapore Watch Club’s fourth anniversary in 2019, Hublot released a Classic Fusion Singapore Special Edition capped at 30 pieces and featuring black ceramic casing, a woven linen dial and appliqué hour numerals featuring Chinese characters in calligraphy.

Allegedly, all 30 pieces were snapped up within 17 minutes, per Crown Watch Blog, before members even had a chance to see what it looked like. Not all buyers kept it for themselves, however, as the piece pictured above was auctioned off for the Singapore Red Cross Forum: “The Future of Humanitarian Action” in the same year, courtesy of vintage watch collector and founder of 2ToneVintage, Ali Nael.

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Timepieces
  • From the artful calligraphy adorning Hublot’s Classic Fusion Singapore, to Blancpain’s grand complication watch with a subdial showing the Chinese calendar, these watches aren’t like the rest
  • Bovet’s enamelled timepieces made their way into China’s Qing court in the 19th century and can still be found at auction, while the newer Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Xiali Calendar shows solar terms