Paris Fashion Week 2023: 4 not-to-be-missed menswear shows, from Rosalía ruling the Louis Vuitton runway and Rick Owens’ Egypt inspiration, to Issey Miyake’s bright hues and Ami’s pastels
- Spanish singer Rosalía cavorted around a set co-created by Michel Gondry, director of Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, past J Balvin, Usher, Kit Harington and K-pop idol and BTS member J-Hope
- LV’s Men’s Studio has taken creative control since the death of Virgil Abloh, while Alexandre Mattiussi’s Ami brand used British actress Charlotte Rampling as a muse for its runway
Singer Rosalía stunned guests at Louis Vuitton’s dramatic, digital age-themed menswear show at Paris Fashion Week on January 19 with a surprise set, atop a vintage 1980s yellow sedan, in shades and hooded jacket.
The boundary-breaking Spanish star delivered an electrifying soulful performance during the runway event, darting about a childhood bedroom set co-created by Michel Gondry, director of 2004’s Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind.
As she sang, the Grammy winner danced around celebrity guests including J Balvin, Usher, Kit Harington, Korean rapper J-Hope and actor Lucien Laviscount, to wild applause.
Here are some highlights from Paris Fashion Week autumn/winter 2023-2024 runways so far, from Louis Vuitton and other key brands.
1. Louis Vuitton goes millennial
Yet Thursday’s set – a vintage childhood home recreated inside the Louvre’s oldest courtyard – showed a continuity with the coming-of-age style that defined Abloh’s tenure that ran from 2018 to his untimely demise in 2021, aged just 41.
This season, the youthful studio team and guest designer Colm Dillane channelled growing up as members of the first generation raised on super-connectivity. References to the digital age thus abounded in the tailoring-heavy runway – which was judged most successful when it kept it simple.