Paris Fashion Week: Loewe brings a whimsical floral theme for spring/summer 2023, with Jonathan Anderson’s giant anthurium dresses and ‘petal’ heels winning over Karlie Kloss and Alexa Chung

Oct 5 , 2022

Models present creations from the womenswear ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 collection by Loewe during a presentation at the Paris Fashion Week (PFW), in Paris, on September 30. Photo: EPA-EFE

For Loewe’s womenswear spring/summer 2023 show, presented at Paris Fashion Week on September 30, guests were wooed by the designer’s inventive take on florals

One dress had a silhouette resembling an upside-down flower, reminiscent of 1940s Dior, while distortions were everywhere evoking a sense of surrealist fashion

Loewe’s ever-creative director, Jonathan Anderson, became the toast of Paris Fashion Week. His subtly provocative, concept-driven runway show was a triumph that had critics and VIP guests, including Karlie Kloss and Alexa Chung, bowled over.

A model presents a creation from the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection of Loewe during Paris Fashion Week on September 30. Photo: Xinhua

Loewe, the hip heritage brand whose “w” is pronounced “v”, is going from strength to strength under the artistic stewardship of the Northern Irish designer.

Jonathan Anderson injected whimsical creations for the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection of Loewe during the Paris Fashion Week on September 30. Photo: Xinhua

Unveiled on September 30, the concept-driven collection – the highlight of the season so far – was a case in point. Like old-school collections used to be, Anderson takes one main theme and develops it until it spawns others creatively within the show, like a symphony held together with invisible strings. A giant bright red tropical flower, identified as an anthurium, was the centrepiece of this minimalist runway – producing thoughtful variations on the flower theme.

A black Loewe bag from the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection during the Paris Fashion Week on September 30. Photo: EPA-EFE

A model wears a striped pink minidress from the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection during the Paris Fashion Week on September 30. Photo: EPA-EFE

It was at times literal, such as the giant white anthurium serving as the front piece on an A-line minidress. At other times it was conceptual: the minimalist shape of a black bustier dress opening the show evoked the purity of the single waxy petal – and its silhouette itself resembled an upside-down flower, like a take on 1940s Dior.

Jonathan Anderson’s curations were inventive and intriguing for the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection during the Paris Fashion Week on September 30. Photo: EPA-EFE

Digital art is all the rage right now, as demonstrated in the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection during the Paris Fashion Week on September 30. Photo: EPA-EFE