The Hermès Birkin, loved by Nita Ambani, Victoria Beckham and Grace Kelly – how did the French luxury fashion house’s marque handbag come about?

Nov 29 , 2020

Nita Ambani and her ultra-rare Hermès Himalaya Birkin handbag, the pinnacle of a much celebrated line of designer tote bags. Photos: Luxurylaunches, @therealKarismaKapoor/Instagram

Inspired by actress Jane Birkin and designed by then-chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas, a Birkin has been a better investment than stocks, says Time – and it has a burgeoning resale and auctions market via Farfetch, Christie’s and more

Serendipitous encounters often create history, and the story of Hermès’ Birkin is no different. In 1983, the chic British-French actress Jane Birkin sat next to the late Jean-Louis Dumas, chief executive of Hermès at the time, on a Paris-London flight.

British-French actress Jane Birkin. Photo: Luxurylaunches

Birkin was one of the most popular actresses of her time, and a songwriter and a model besides. Her international fame only increased during her tumultuous relationship with “bad boy” singer and artist Serge Gainsbourg.

During Birkin’s encounter with Dumas, the contents of her beloved straw basket fell out in front of Dumas and she ended up agonising with him over the lack of a good practical leather weekend bag.

The conversation led Dumas to quickly sketch out a supple and spacious rectangular holdall, with a dedicated space for baby bottles, with his new muse during the short journey. That idea eventually became Birkin’s namesake bag that has gone on to become a kingpin in the world of uber-luxe bags.

Hermès’ flagship store in Paris. Photo: Luxurylaunches

The history of Hermès

Hermès humbly started as a harness and saddlery workshop in 1837 under its founder, Thierry Hermès. The business grew considerably when his grandsons, Adolphe and Émile-Maurice Hermès, took over the reins upon his demise. It was then that the brand began its retail journey at the now-iconic flagship location at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.

By the 1900s, Hermès had broadened its offerings to include saddle-stitched luxury goods and its first-ever leather bag – the Haut à Courroies, known later as the Birkin HAC, the larger predecessor of the modern-day Birkin. As the illustrious house grew, it expanded its range to include scarves, created the famous interlocking H logo, and introduced France to a cool new fastener called the zip.