Michelle Obama and Deepika Padukone are donning new wave Indian luxury fashion, but why are designers turning from OTT extravagance to sleek artisanship?

Nov 10 , 2020

Michelle Obama in a sequinned pantsuit by Indian designers Sachin & Babi at the 2019 Grammy Awards. Photo: Invision/AP

Sonam Kapoor and Kangana Ranaut are just a few of the celebrities sporting couture by home-grown labels like Bodice Studio, Rimzim Dadu and Ode to Odd, but many Indians still look to Western brands

Dressing up is synonymous with over-the-top glamour in India. Whether it’s traditional costumes or Western clothes, high-end fashion is typically characterised by extravagance – think raging colours, bold prints, heavy-duty embellishments and head-to-toe accessories.

This lavish understanding of luxury dates back to centuries of opulent royal courts and decades of Bollywood’s flashy beauty, but that narrative is increasingly being challenged by young designers. The sleek minimalism, simple colours, unconventional tailoring and fluid silhouettes of home-grown labels such as Bodice Studio and Rimzim Dadu are setting a subtle standard of luxury that celebrates individualism and artisanship rather than glitz. True to the spirit of couture, nearly everything is done by hand including fabric weaving and sewing – a process that celebrates slow living while creating a sense of intimacy between designer, artisan and wearer. As a result, prices are at a premium, with elaborate pieces costing above US$1,000.

Pleats soften traditional shapes and add a more layered look. Photo: Bodice Studio

“Does a woman always have to be decorated? It’s time we question our definition of luxury,” said Ruchika Sachdeva, the brains behind nine-year-old Bodice Studio and 2018 recipient of the prestigious International Woolmark Prize. “It’s not about how loud clothes look or how ornamental they are but rather how well is the artisan paid? What’s the quality of the fibre? What kind of effort has gone into it? What kind of impact does it have on the environment? These are the traits we should be looking for.”

Sachdeva’s design philosophy is centred on the element of human connection. Worn by Bollywood A-listers such as Deepika Padukone and Kangana Ranaut, New Delhi-based Bodice combines graphic lines, architectural proportions and soft pleats on oversized yet structured ensembles that take their cues from classic sportswear.

Bare midriffs are commonplace in traditional Indian clothes like saris but Ode to Odd brings a quirky twist. Photo: Ode to Odd

“When I was living in London, I felt like the reason I started designing wasn’t being fulfilled as much,” explained Sacheva. “There was a lot of digital technology but I missed the tactile quality of visiting places where generations have learned the same craft. I found that really romantic and that’s why I came back to India.”

One collection incorporates liquid-like designs made from marbling – an effect that most designers do as a print. But for a more personal feel, Sacheva and her team followed the old-school procedure, which involves a pool of water, dye and an artisan who creates patterns.

“Each and every metre of the final fabric is unique and can’t be repeated,” she explained. “When I learn about these processes, I just fall in love with them even more and I believe there are more people who feel the same way.”

A typically fluid and voluptuous Rimzim Dadu design. Photo: Rimzim Dadu

Rimzim Dadu, who in 2016 debuted her now-signature metallic saris made from stainless steel wires, operates on the same principle. Her futuristic creations, favoured by Bollywood actresses Vaani Kapoor and Sonam Kapoor, stand out in the realm of Indian wear for their billowy form and precise draping, which adds so much movement that outfits look like kinetic sculptures.