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Birkin or Kelly? Mini or oversized, vintage or new – which Hermès handbags will go up in value?

Which Hermès bag will go up in value fastest? STYLE has the answer. Photo: Christie’s
Which Hermès bag will go up in value fastest? STYLE has the answer. Photo: Christie’s
Hermès

Some bags are worth more than others – so which Hermès makes the better investment? Birkin or Kelly? Oversized or mini? Himalayan croc skin, barenia leather or box calfskin?

There is a hierarchy in value when it comes to more common Birkin and Kelly models,which are already considered more desirable compared to other bags from Hermès.

Ingrid Chua, a journalist turned fashion blogger, also known as the Bag Hag on social media. Photo: Ingrid Chua
Ingrid Chua, a journalist turned fashion blogger, also known as the Bag Hag on social media. Photo: Ingrid Chua
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“The sizes that get a higher resale value are usually the smaller ones – for Birkins, 25cm is preferred, then 30cm. Kelly bag resale values are highest for the 25cm and 28cm sizes,” says fashion blogger Ingrid Chua.

Hermès Kelly, with an outside sellier mou stitching. Photo: Christie's
Hermès Kelly, with an outside sellier mou stitching. Photo: Christie's

The construction method also plays a part: “Kelly structures come in sellier mou (which are outside stitched, hence more rigid in structure) or retourne (inside stitched, so the structure is softer). Sellier mou is the more expensive way to construct a Kelly, and is considered rarer. Birkins used to come only in retourne, but the sellier mou has since become an alternative that’s not as regularly offered,” says Chua.

 

Among more “regular” models, certain leathers are more desirable – Himalayan croc skin is definitely the pinnacle, but collectors also appreciate barenia or box calfskin, often used in vintage models, and chèvre. Regular leather Birkin and Kelly bags that are considered more “unicorn” are “purple-hued ones like anemone, lilac and pastel pink shades like sakura. VVIPs are given the privilege of special orders, and having a bag combination with those shades will really make your friends green with envy,” Chua adds.

 

For those who are looking for the extraordinary, there are the unique finds that show up on auction blocks – with price tags to match. Winsy Tsang, head of sales at Christie’s, concurs that Himalayan Birkins and smaller-sized models tend to fetch higher returns, including miniature bags such as the Kelly Pochette, Mini Kelly and Mini Lindy.

Christina Ko
Hong Kong-based writer and editor Christina has covered the luxury scene for over a decade. She covers topics ranging from beauty and wellness to arts and culture. Formerly the editorial director of Prestige Hong Kong, she has written for various publications including Hong Kong Tatler, Discovery and Silverkris, as well as for clients such as Louis Vuitton, Dior, Estee Lauder and Lane Crawford.