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Inside luxury’s love affair with cinema: from Chanel’s outfits for Sofia Coppola’s Priscilla and dressing Kristen Stewart as Princess Diana in Spencer, to Pedro Almodóvar’s film with Saint Laurent

Chanel collaborated with director and star Maïwenn and costume designer Jürgen Doering to create six costumes for the character of Jeanne du Barry in the movie of the same name. Photo: Handout

From the moment you step into the “Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto” exhibition at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, you get a sense of just how avant-garde Coco Chanel was. And it wasn’t merely her low-slung dresses, her glittering “dinner party” pyjamas and her little black jackets, but her desire to embrace whatever was coming next in the world of culture and design.

A century on, and the brand is still inspired by these values – and insists that its legacy of cultural patronage goes back to the founder herself. This can be seen by the relationship Chanel is cultivating with the M+ museum in Hong Kong, a three-year partnership which kicked off this summer.
A still image from Mark Cousins’ 14-hoir Women Make Film documentary (2018). Photo: M+
Much of their patronage will be around uplifting the city’s film heritage. “Hong Kong is known for its remarkable and unique relationship with cinema,” says Yana Peel, global head of arts and culture at Chanel. “The distinctive identity of Hong Kong cinema has influenced the film industry globally, and we felt it was essential to preserve its precious cultural heritage, locally and globally.

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Tony Leung’s lifetime achievement award and Michelle Yeoh’s recent Oscar are a testament to this. The filmmaking of pioneers like director John Woo, Wan Kar-wai and actors like Chow Yun-fat have influenced the world beyond entertainment. The same can be said for the martial arts genre defined by Bruce Lee, Jackie Chan and Jet Li.”
Hong Kong actor Tony Leung Chiu-wai reacts after he received the Golden Lion for Lifetime Achievement award at the 80th Venice Film Festival on September 2, 2023. Photo: AFP
While not all born in the city, all of these talents made their mark and enjoyed the flashbulb-popping exposure of Hong Kong cinema’s “golden age”. But as well as nodding to the old classics, Chanel wants to uplift filmmakers – and particularly women directors – who may not have enjoyed the same opportunities. Leading these efforts will be Silke Schmickl, the newly appointed Chanel lead curator of moving image at M+.
“Women in Hong Kong film like Ann Hui, Elen Pau and Mabel Cheung have left or are leaving an indelible mark on the history of cinema worldwide,” says Peel. “Appointing Silke Schmickl means that we are able to spotlight this contribution to the evolution of filmmaking, cultural exchange and global appreciation of Asian cinema.”
Michelle Yeoh on the red carpet during the 76th annual Cannes Film Festival earlier this year. Photo: WireImage
Luxury brands and cinema have long gone hand in hand but their relationship in recent years has gone far deeper than just red-carpet dressing, costume design or even the occasional advert made by a famous director.

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Instead, fashion houses such as Chanel and Saint Laurent have begun financing independent cinema, or partnering with the industry’s most exciting young storytellers to create visually beautiful motion pictures.

The poster for the short Strange Way of Life, produced by fashion house Saint Laurent

At this year’s Cannes Film Festival, Saint Laurent unveiled the short film Strange Way of Life directed by Pedro Almodóvar, and co-produced by the luxury brand and the iconoclastic Spanish filmmaker’s own production company El Desso. Costume design, unsurprisingly, was done by Anthony Vaccarello, creative director at Saint Laurent, and director and star Ethan Hawke strutted down the red carpet in his designs.

Ethan Hawke and Pedro Pascal in the short Strange Way of Life, produced by fashion house Saint Laurent
The perfect dress on the perfect actress can generate billions of dollars for them – so it’s something worth investing in
Jessica Harris, brand consultant

Strange Way of Life marked the first creation of Saint Laurent Productions, the recently launched film arm of the French fashion house. Vaccarello will oversee coming collaborations with many of the most feted directors working today – David Cronenberg, Wong Kar-wai, Paolo Sorrentino, Jim Jarmusch and Gaspar Noé. “I want to work with and provide a space for all the great film talents who have inspired me over the years,” said Vaccarello.

Kristen Stewart as Princess Diana in Spencer. Photo: Neon/TNS

While Saint Laurent is the only house with a production wing, plenty of other brands are becoming increasingly involved with the industry: Chanel too has worked on major motion pictures, most notably the Princess Diana biopic Spencer starring the brand’s muse Kristen Stewart, for which the house designed nearly all the costumes. The house also supported two of Stewart’s other projects: Clouds of Sils Maria and Personal Shopper.

More recently, Chanel collaborated with director Maïwenn and costume designer Jürgen Doering to create six costumes for the character of Jeanne du Barry, played by Maïwenn in the film of the same title. The maison also worked with director and Chanel ambassador Sofia Coppola for the creation of a wedding dress in upcoming Priscilla, which paints a portrait of Elvis Presley’s only wife.
Chanel collaborated with director Maïwenn and the costume designer Jürgen Doering to create six costumes for the character of Jeanne du Barry, played by Maïwenn. Photo: Chanel

“As E.M. Forster wrote, ‘only connect’, and we are dedicated to co-creation, knowledge exchange and innovating across artistic disciplines to inspire future generations of creatives worldwide,” says Peel.

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Valentino also has a finger in the pie and at Cannes in 2019 hosted the premiere of The Staggering Girl, a film the house part-funded that was directed by Luca Guadagnino. Inspired by the couture collections, the set was built around Valentino’s designs and much of the focus was on the artistry of the clothes.

The strengthening ties between fashion and film make sense for both industries. For fashion brands, the red carpet is one of the most important publicity avenues and by sponsoring or producing a film they have far more control over who they dress both at the events and on screen. “The perfect dress on the perfect actress can generate billions of dollars for them – so it’s something worth investing in,” says fashion PR and brand consultant Jessica Harris.
Chanel collaborated with director Maïwenn and the costume designer Jürgen Doering to create six costumes for the character of Jeanne du Barry, played by Maïwenn. Photo: Chanel

These relationships also add a gravitas to a brand’s cultural offering – lifting them up into the sphere of serious cinema. “It allows them to be a heavyweight across culture rather than just fashion – which is where I think a lot of luxury brands want to reposition themselves,” says Harris. “I wouldn’t be surprised if what they’ve done in art doesn’t soon get repeated in the world of cinema.”

As for directors, the injection of cash that comes from partnering with luxury brands has been hugely appreciated: Chanel’s financial assistance on Clouds of Sils Maria, for example, allowed the director to realise his vision by working on 35mm film, rather than shooting digitally.

“Film is always a reflection of society, as is fashion,” Jean Paul Gaultier, one of the industry’s biggest cinema buffs, once said. “In many ways they belong together.”

Cinema
  • David Cronenberg, Wong Kar-wai, Paolo Sorrentino and Jim Jarmusch have all been lined up to work on a new project from Saint Laurent Productions – the first luxury brand to boast a film wing
  • Chanel is promoting Hong Kong cinema heritage through a new curational partnership with M+ museum’s moving image programmes, while Valentino hosted the Cannes premiere of The Staggering Girl