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Paris Haute Couture Week 2024: Chanel stunned in its first show without a creative director, while Giorgio Armani presented Armani Privé’s autumn/winter collection just before turning 90

Model Vittoria Ceretti opened the Chanel autumn/winter 2024-25 haute couture show in a voluminous black cape paired with a white bodysuit. Photo: Reuters
Paris Haute Couture Week kicked off in the French capital with plenty of sparkle thanks to Dior and Schiaparelli – and the excitement only continued during Chanel and Armani Privé’s presentations during day two.

Chanel

A look from the Chanel autumn/winter 2024 haute couture collection photographed by Karim Sadli at the Palais Garnier in Paris. Photo: Handout

Guests at the Chanel autumn/winter 2024 haute couture show were all looking for signs of what’s to come at the storied Parisian label after it parted ways with creative director Virginie Viard earlier this month.

US actress Sadie Sink at the Chanel autumn/winter 2024 haute couture show in Paris. Photo: AFP
However, the collection – presented by the maison’s “fashion creation studio” – revealed very few clues as to what will happen once a new successor is named. The first show envisioned without a creative director in the history of the house unsurprisingly stayed true to the quintessential DNA of the brand while also offering a bit of theatrical flair.
Model Vittoria Ceretti opened the show in a voluminous black cape paired with a white bodysuit. Photo: AFP

Attended by house ambassadors such as Keira Knightley and Sadie Sink, the event took place inside Paris’ opera house, Palais Garnier. The locale embodies the same values of Chanel’s haute couture: “beauty, patience and excellence”, as the brand put it in an Instagram post teasing the unveiling. (Chanel is also a major patron of the Paris opera and sponsors its yearly opening gala.)

A tweed look at the Chanel autumn/winter 2024 haute couture show shown at the Palais Garnier in Paris. Photo: AFP
The first look, a voluminous black taffeta cape paired with a white bustier and worn by model Vittoria Ceretti, defined the entire collection. With its dramatic silhouette, it made for a grand entrance and was a clear homage to the world of theatre and opera.
A bow-embellished outfit at the Chanel autumn/winter 2024 haute couture show. Photo: Handout
Ballet-inspired tutus, more theatrical capes – including a stunning feathered one – and other opera-influenced creations completed the line-up. The collection also featured Chanel’s bread and butter: a series of beautiful tweed skirt suits with the incredible embellishments that the brand’s ateliers never fail to deliver.
Bow details at the Chanel autumn/winter 2024 haute couture show. Photo: AFP

Those suits and the collection’s diaphanous gowns – not to mention a few outfits decorated with bows and ribbons that were just lovely – will keep clients more than happy while the fashion world eagerly waits to find out what the new chapter in the history of this French institution will look like.

Armani Privé

Designer Giorgio Armani at the end of the Armani Privé autumn/winter 2024-2025 show in Paris. Photo: Reuters
Meanwhile, Giorgio Armani is turning 90 next month – a major milestone in the life of a living legend in the fashion industry.
Pearl embellishments at Armani Privé. Photo: AFP

The Italian designer still helms the label he founded almost 50 years ago and shows no signs of slowing down. After unveiling two men’s collections in Milan only two weeks ago – one for his eponymous label, and the other for Emporio Armani – he and his team decamped to Paris for the autumn/winter 2024-25 show of Armani Privé, his haute couture line.

Actress Cate Blanchett at the Armani Privé autumn/winter 2024-2025 show in Paris. Photo: Getty Images
Surface light and its reflections on garments have always been key elements of the designer’s oeuvre. This season, his starting point was pearls: the beautiful translucent creations of nature associated with “the moon, purity, water, wisdom and love”, as the designer explained in the show notes.

Shimmery fabrics, liquid silhouettes and sculpted tailoring predominated in the elegant collection. Pearl embellishments and pearl-shaped accessories were more literal interpretations of the theme, which Armani chose to provide a sense of “serenity” and “calm” in these turbulent times.

A pearl-embellished velvet gown at the Armani Privé autumn/winter 2024-2025 show in Paris. Photo: AFP

Armani Privé is famously a red carpet favourite – just look at all the A-listers the designer dresses every award season. You’re likely to see the evening gowns from this collection, especially the ones in black velvet and nude satin, on many of his famous fans – such as actresses Cate Blanchett and Fala Chen, who were both in attendance.

  • After the departure of creative director Virginie Viard, Chanel leaned on its DNA and theatrical strengths, with Vittoria Ceretti opening the show, and Sadie Sink and Keira Knightley sitting front row
  • Armani Privé showcased an elegant collection focusing on pearls, which the designer hopes convey ‘serenity’ and ‘calm’; famous fans such as Cate Blanchett and Fala Chen were seen at the show