Perfumers in Florence make perfect scents

A vintage wooden door, set with elegantly etched glass panels, marks the entrance to the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (SMN). Although it looks fairly interesting, it gives absolutely no inkling of the fascinating secret that lies behind it. For centuries, this store’s occupants have been trying to unravel a mystery: how to perfect the ultimate perfume.

Florence, capital of the Italian region of Tuscany, is rightly celebrated for its astounding historic architecture and treasure-trove of fine art. However, what’s less known is that since the Middle Ages, this small city (approximate population 380,000) has been a principal hub for the production of quintessential aromas – and SMN is at the heart of this noble tradition – it also manufactures other cosmetics, creams, soaps and shampoos, among others.

“Our store is one of the oldest pharmacies in the world, founded by Dominican monks in 1221 in part of what was once a monastic complex,” says Eugenio Alphandery, co-owner and president of SMN. “They began to cultivate medicinal herbs in the gardens for the convent infirmary. Eventually, in 1612, Friar Angelo Marchissi opened up the apothecary to the public. We have been in the exact spot [Via della Scala 16] ever since.”

Today, not only do they still use the monks’ ancient recipes (using the highest-quality natural ingredients), they also follow many of their artisanal procedures, although nowadays modern technology is incorporated into this process as they use state-of-the-art machinery.

According to Science Magazine, the human nose can detect 1 trillion different odours. After five minutes in SMN, you’ll believe you’ve encountered all of the most enchanting ones. Emanating from a plethora of gold and silver-capped translucent bottles, meticulously laid out on antique walnut counters, is a melange of intoxicating scents: magnolia, pomegranate, sandalwood, Sicilian lemon.

If that doesn’t already leave you drifting through the clouds, this company’s signature number just might. Acqua di S.M. Novella Perfume (HK$980 for a 100ml bottle) is the perfume maker’s oldest fragrance. A heady mix of citrus aromas, it was commissioned in 1533 by a member of one of Italy’s most influential families, Caterina de’ Medici. “Under her patronage, the reputation of the pharmacy snowballed,” Eugenio says.