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Inside Empress Masako jewellery box: does the consort of Japan’s Emperor Naruhito know how to wear her elegant Akoya pearls?

STORYWilson Lau
Japan’s Empress Masako and husband Emperor Naruhito wave to well-wishers after his official accession to the Chrysanthemum throne in late 2019, but her usual look is more understated and dominated by pearls. Photo: EPA-EFE

Born into a prominent diplomatic family, Japan’s Empress Masako enjoyed a cosmopolitan life and education, studying at both Harvard and Oxford, she today speaks a total of five languages.

In 1993, Empress Masako gave up her diplomatic career and married then-Crown Prince Naruhito. Previously, she rarely made public appearances, reportedly because of mental stress, but became much more actively involved in royal engagements following her husband’s ascension to the Chrysanthemum Throne in May 2019 – and her own elevation to the role of empress consort.

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Japanese Emperor Naruhito and Empress Masako arrive at a ceremony marking the 70th anniversary of the nation’s offenders rehabilitation system in Tokyo in October 2019. Photo: Kyodo

The minimalist style of Empress Masako lets her jewellery – primarily pearls – be the focal point of her look. The precious gems are closely associated with Japan: the cultivation of seawater pearls in Japan was pioneered by Mikimoto Kōkichi, founder of the Mikimoto brand, in the late 19th century. Cultured pearls from Japan are known as Akoya pearls and top-grade Akoyas – perfectly round, of appealing sheen and no more than 10mm in diameter – are Empress Masako’s favourite.

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Japanese Emperor Naruhito and Empress Masako wave to thousands of well-wishers gathered at the Imperial Palace in Tokyo, in May 2019, in their first public appearance since his enthronement earlier the same month. Photo: Kyodo
From iconic strands to brooches to earrings, the luminosity of pearls helps her always appear radiant and glowing. To add subtle visual interest, the empress mixes and matches jewellery designs using different categories of pearls, particularly the South Sea and Akoya types.

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She’s all about understated elegance though: eschewing over-the-top pearl jewellery (particularly pieces with pearls above 15mm in diameter), and instead going for designs set with moderately sized pearls. She often pairs a stylish and simple white South Sea pearl necklace with diamond brooches and studded pearl earrings in a matching colour.

Japan’s Emperor Naruhito and Empress Masako arriving back at the Imperial Palace in Tokyo in May 2019. Photo: AFP

Here Empress Masako plays with colour coordination as she pairs an ultra-classic three-strand Akoya pearl necklace with golden South Sea pearl drop earrings, of minimalistic design. She completes the elegant look with an elaborate swirling ribbon brooch with pearls and diamonds.

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Crown Princess Masako of Japan during the inauguration ceremony of King Willem Alexander and Queen Maxima of the Netherlands, at New Church, Amsterdam, Netherlands, on April 30, 2013. Photo: Getty Images
Few royals make pearl jewellery appear more majestic than Empress Masako. Here at the inauguration ceremony of King Willem Alexander and the ever-elegant Queen Maxima of the Netherlands in 2013, the Japanese royal wore a pair of South Sea pearl earrings, studded with diamonds, and complemented them with an ornate Akoya pearl brooch on top of a sash.

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Japan’s Crown Prince Naruhito and Crown Princess Masako head to a state banquet at the Imperial Palace in Tokyo to welcome visiting Dutch King Willem-Alexander and Queen Maxima in October 2014. Photo: Kyodo

An oddity among Japan’s imperial tiaras, the Pearl Sunburst Tiara is a variant of the classic fringe tiara design with thin diamond rays. A handful of perfectly round pearls in graduating sizes add softness to the design.

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Japanese Emperor Naruhito and Empress Masako wave to people during a parade after their wedding ceremony in Tokyo in June 1993. Photo: STR/JIJI PRESS/AFP

At their wedding back in June 1993, then-Crown Princess Masako was crowned with the magnificent Diamond Scroll Tiara, given to her by Empress Michiko, her mother-in-law.

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Japanese Emperor Naruhito and Empress Masako wave during a royal motorcade in Tokyo in November 2019. Photo: AP Photo

Draped in sparkling diamonds for maximum pomp and pageantry, Empress Masako is seen here wearing the Meiji Tiara, the most important Western-style heirloom tiara in the imperial collection, with a diamond necklace and earrings.

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Royalty
  • Seawater pearls were first cultivated in Japan by Mikimoto Kōkichi, founder of the Mikimoto brand – these Akoya pearls have long been Empress Masako’s favourite
  • She wore the imperial Pearl Sunburst Tiara to meet King Alexander and Queen Maxima of the Netherlands, and the family’s Diamond Scroll Tiara to her 1993 wedding