Explainer / What are keratin treatments – and why are they so popular? Leveraging a protein already native to our body, they smooth frizz and strengthen hair simultaneously, but can have health risks too

Mar 19 , 2024

More have been turning to keratin treatment – but what exactly is it? Photo: Goldwell

Unlike options that may aggressively break and restructure hair bonds, treatments with keratin – a protein already in the hair – nourish, strengthen and smooth

But the treatment is not without its risks: formaldehyde in some products can emit harmful fumes, with risks like eye irritation, breathing problems and skin reactions

In the pursuit of shiny and sleek hair, more people are embracing hair smoothing treatments. These wonders tame frizz, boost shine and enhance silkiness, quickly becoming staple treatments in salons worldwide and offering a solution for those struggling with unruly hair.

Among the wide range of options – from Brazilian blowouts to Japanese straightening – keratin treatments are stealing the spotlight. Celebrated for their ability to strengthen and smooth simultaneously, they leverage keratin, a protein native to our hair, providing both a beauty boost and a nourishing touch.

Here’s what you need to know about the range of treatments.

What is a keratin treatment?

Keratin treatments strengthen and smooth hair simultaneously, and leverage a protein already in our hair. Photo: Getty Images

Keratin treatments are game-changers in the hair care arena, known for turning frizzy, untamed hair into sleek, shiny locks. Unlike other hair smoothing treatments that may aggressively break and restructure hair bonds, these treatments nourish with keratin – a protein already in the hair. This not only fights frizz and increases the gloss, but also strengthens your strands, boosting their health and beauty.

Keratin treatments are known for their flexibility – they adjust according to hair types. Photo: Getty Images

“One of the defining characteristics of keratin treatments is their flexibility,” says hairstylist and educator Christina Carlsson. “They can adjust to various hair types by gently coating each strand, enhancing smoothness, filling in the porosity, and smoothing the cuticle without permanently changing its structure.”

This results in a natural-looking smoothness that respects the hair’s integrity and allows for a gradual return to its natural texture over time.

They improve hair health at a molecular level

Keratin is already present in our body, but styling and environmental stress can strip it away. Photo: Deseo Salon & Blow Dry

Keratin is a superhero protein vital for your hair, nails and skin. Its strong bonds provide hair with strength and elasticity, making it an essential component in hair’s structural integrity. “In healthy hair, keratin proteins are naturally aligned and tightly packed; however, daily styling and environmental stress can strip your hair of keratin, leading to damage and frizz,” Carlsson explains.