British shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood looks to the future

British shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood may be celebrated for his innovative creations today, but the beginning of his career in fashion – as a shop assistant for London milliner Philip Treacy – was not so illustrious.

Although work as a hat salesman didn’t pan out, Kirkwood found inspiration in Treacy’s creative headpieces and began designing artistic shoes that could match the exquisite fashions of the time by the likes of Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan.

At 35 years old, Kirkwood has undoubtedly been one of the fastestrising stars in shoe design. Debuting in 2005, his work proved to be an instant hit, catching the eye of fashion industry veterans such as Isabella Blow, Grace Jones and Daphne Guinness. He took home the prestigious AltaRoma Vogue Italia award in 2007 and three years later won Best Accessory Designer at the British Fashion Awards, putting him well on his way to the footwear hall of fame alongside such iconic names as Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin and Jimmy Choo.

“Architecture, sculpture, colour and more – I’m inspired by so many elements that surround me,” Kirkwood says. “I try to reflect this in my choice and use of materials to explore what they can do.”

This expressive approach has obviously worked. Fashion designers such as Peter Pilotto, Rodarte and Erdem are among Kirkwood’s stellar line-up of collaborators, while his celebrity fans include Hollywood actresses Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Lawrence and Kirsten Dunst.

And now the soft-spoken Brit has more to boast about. In late 2013, luxury conglomerate Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) acquired a majority stake in Kirkwood’s eponymous label. The news had the fashion industry abu.

ZZIn the year following LVMH’s investment, Kirkwood transformed his “family-style” operation into a more structured system by hiring a CFO, a commercial director, a US commercial manager and communications director. He also launched pop-up stores in Miami, Tokyo, Paris, Dubai and, more recently, Beijing in order to test potential new markets for the brand.

“We have a shared vision of the future,” Kirkwood says of LVMH. “It’s an incredible opportunity to look to the group’s expertise.”

He views the deal as a long-term partnership. “[It] will allow me to continue to develop my creative vision with support,” he says. “The investment in young brands is a positive sign in the fashion industry and highlights London as a creative force for the future.”

While Kirkwood’s business ambitions are growing, he’s continuing to make strides creatively.