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Destinations Known | Bangkok’s Khao San Road is preparing to ‘reopen’ – will it ever be the same again?

  • After a US$1.54 million facelift, the notorious party street is being promoted as ‘a safe place to go for those worried about Covid-19’
  • But the businesses that line the 410-metre stretch worry for their futures without the international tourists they rely on

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A lone tuk-tuk driver waits for customers on Bangkok’s Khao San Road, empty of tourists amid the Covid-19 pandemic. Photo: AFP

Khao San Road’s reputation – as a place of hedonism where countless backpackers’ drunken dreams have quickly become SangSom-fuelled hangovers of nightmare proportions – was immortalised in Alex Garland’s cult 1996 novel, The Beach, and later in the critically panned film of the same name, starring Leonardo DiCaprio.

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Once thronged by budget travellers in search of budget thrills, for whom the all-night party started in the 1980s and only got more debauched as the decades passed, the 410-metre Bangkok stretch has been quiet for months, and not just because of the coronavirus.

(Incidentally, the shores of Maya Bay, on Koh Phi Phi, which also starred in the big-screen version of The Beach, have been off-limits to visitors since 2018, a victim of too many tourists in search of the same unspoilt sands that attracted DiCaprio’s character. But that’s another story.)

From January 30 to May 18, Khao San Road underwent a 48.4 million baht (US$1.54 million) facelift to improve its “ghetto” image. On August 18, the Bangkok Post newspaper reported that it was finally ready to reopen “next month”, although how a road that was never really closed can “reopen” isn’t entirely clear.

“The road and foot­paths are now on the same level, gutters connected tothe main drainage system have been constructed on both sides of the road and there is desig­nated space for emer­gency use, such as a parking space for fire trucks,” the report stated.

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