Fez: the good, bad and ugly sides to Morocco’s oldest and best-preserved city
- Step back in time in the medina, where even the most jaded souvenir shoppers will go glassy-eyed at the range on offer
- But beware pickpockets, unscrupulous guides and the ‘two-menu trick’, which will see you spending more than planned

The good
Founded in AD789, Fez is the oldest and best-preserved city in Morocco and was the country’s first capital. The medina, Fez el Bali, takes travellers back in time and entering is like stumbling onto a medieval movie set. Surrounded by walls that stretch for 8km, the Unesco World Heritage Site is criss-crossed by 9,500 narrow streets and 9,600 carpet shops (only joking).
The call to prayer merges with cries of “Balek!” (look out!) from donkey drivers as they squeeze through the throng. The scents of spices and cedarwood mingle with dust and dung, and the psychedelic hues of mosaic tiles dazzle newcomers. Without a guide, getting lost in the medina is inevitable but it won’t be long before an enterprising youngster offers to lead you out (or further in) for a few dirhams.
Claustrophobes will be glad to reach Place Seffarine. After being hemmed in by endless dark passageways, arriving at the broad plaza feels like emerging from underground. A cacophony of bashing and pounding can be heard long before reaching the square. This is coppersmith territory, where craftsmen fashion lumps of metal into kettles and candleholders.

On the subject of arts and crafts, even the most jaded souvenir shoppers go glassy-eyed in the craft shops of the medina. The array of merchandise is bewildering and the quality is generally excellent, although hard bargaining is not only essential if you want to snap up the best deals but expected. Merchants will call you over, serve up mint tea and engage in light conversation. If you feel uncomfortable or have no interest in buying, make it clear early on. Most are simply trying to earn a living and a polite “la shukran” (no thanks) should do the trick.
Next, find your way (or be directed) to Chouara Tannery and a scene that has changed little over the centuries. Wiry workers clean raw hides in huge coloured pots containing quicklime, cow urine and salt. Before the dyeing process begins, the skins are soaked in water mixed with pigeon poop, a method dating back centuries. Owners of leather boutiques have built viewing platforms that overlook what looks like a giant artist’s palette. After taking the obligatory photos comes the serious business of haggling for a handbag.