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Travellers' Checks | Remembering Hong Kong’s Repulse Bay Hotel, where Hemingway hung out on ‘the Riviera of the East’

  • The heritage property, which was demolished in 1982, would have celebrated its centenary this year
  • It hosted a number of famous faces, including Marlon Brando, William Holden and Wallis Simpson

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The Repulse Bay Hotel, in Hong Kong, in 1971.

Had it not been torn down by its owners – Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels – in the 1980s, The Repulse Bay Hotel would be celebrating its centenary this year. Heralded by The Hongkong Telegraph as “a real pleasure resort for the Colony, a hotel without its like in the East”, it was opened on New Year’s Day 1920 by Hong Kong’s new governor, Sir Reginald Stubbs. “From the point of view of the tourist,” he was quoted as saying in his opening speech, it was “a great advantage to have a place of this kind, but whether, from the point of view of the Colony, it was a great advantage to have the tourists was a matter on which there was a little difference of opinion.” (Polite laughter ensued.)

It was proposed that Repulse Bay might become the “Menton of the East”, in a comparison to the French Riviera town where the likes of the Hôtel des Anglais catered to tubercular English tourists in the winter and a new breed of sun-worshipper in the summer. The Repulse Bay Hotel even promoted its location as “The Riviera of the East”.

Repulse Bay, circa 1920, around the time that Richard Oliver of the North China Daily News wrote: ‘The internal combustion engine has made it like Margate.’
Repulse Bay, circa 1920, around the time that Richard Oliver of the North China Daily News wrote: ‘The internal combustion engine has made it like Margate.’

After more than six decades of hosting guests including Wallis Simpson, Ernest Hemingway, William Holden and Marlon Brando, the hotel was demolished in 1982. Three years later, as mournfully noted in The Straits Times, the site remained “a pile of rubble”, with official approval having just been given to Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels to also demolish The Peninsula hotel. Fortunately, sanity prevailed, and the latter was saved (a tower was added instead); a facsimile of the central building of The Repulse Bay Hotel – but not its two residential wings – was erected to house The Verandah restaurant in 1986.

How long, or if ever, the area actually resembled the French Riviera is unclear, but Richard Oliver, of the North China Daily News, visiting in June 1920, was unconvinced. For him, the place – with its newly crowded beach – was more like a working-class English seaside town. “Any afternoon before 1918,” he wrote, “Repulse Bay was a place deserted. The internal combustion engine has made it like Margate.”

Get your hands on a piece of aviation history

A luggage tag from a recycled Singapore Airlines Airbus A380 with the registration number 9V-SKA.
A luggage tag from a recycled Singapore Airlines Airbus A380 with the registration number 9V-SKA.
Adam has lived in Hong Kong since 1988. He briefly managed the demise of the Wanderlust travel bookshop on Hollywood road in the mid 1990s, then worked as Associate Editor on Cathay Pacific’s inflight magazine Discovery for several years. He began writing Travellers’ Checks for Post Magazine in 1998, working for several years under the pseudonym Peter Walbrook. A former contributing editor for the exclusive luxury travel guide NB Review, he has also edited several books, including the first-ever travel guide to Uzbekistan in 1996, and 'The Amazing Adventures of Betsy And Niki' (2008) by Captain Charles “Chic” Eather. His non-fiction book 'The Great Fire of Hong Kong', was published in 2010.
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