The good, bad and ugly sides of Chernobyl and Kiev – two very different Ukrainian destinations
- The success of HBO series Chernobyl has seen an upsurge in tourism at the site of the world’s worst nuclear disaster
- Some of the more disrespectful visitors use the tour as an opportunity for taking tasteless selfies, including posing in a G-string
The Good
If it’s subterranean superlatives you’re seeking, take a metro train to Arsenalna, one of the world’s deepest underground stations, at 105.5 metres below street level. (Hong Kong’s deepest MTR station, HKU, is a mere 70 metres below ground). Next head to Andriyivskyy Descent, a steep lane crammed with lacquerware, jewellery and Soviet memorabilia stalls. Inexpensive eateries and juice bars line the shiny cobbles overlooked by St Andrew’s Church, a Baroque masterpiece that looks good enough to eat.
If possible, time your visit for a weekend, when Kiev’s main thoroughfare, Khreshchatyk Street, is closed to traffic, and exploring the sights is even easier. The eight-lane avenue, which has seen its share of tanks rolling past over the years, becomes human in scale and convivial in atmosphere: cafe owners arrange tables and chairs on the road; storytellers entertain children; and crowds gather to watch street performers.
Ukraine became nuclear-weapon-free in 1996 and the Strategic Missile Forces Museum, three hours south of Kiev, makes for a long but fascinating day trip; if only because there aren’t many nuclear-missile launch facilities available for public inspection. Decommissioned rockets and military hardware litter the outdoor exhibition space while 12 floors underground by rickety lift lies the former control room. Here tourists take it in turns to sit at the so-called Desk of Doom and press the very button that would once have resulted in Armageddon. Today it merely sets off lights and alarms.
Besides fridge magnets, novelty gas masks and “radioactive” ice cream, the Chernobyl Tourist Information Centre sells full nuclear fallout (hazmat) suits. Protective clothing is not required for tours of the eerie site as visitors are exposed to radiation levels no higher than a dental X-ray. Touching anything at the scene of the world’s worst nuclear accident is a no-no, however, and sightseers are checked for radioactive particles when they arrive and again when they leave.
