Chiang Mai – the good, bad and ugly sides to Thailand’s second city
- The laid-back city has lured thriving communities of expats with top-notch health care, fast Wi-fi and a cooler winter climate
- Taking the shine off the Land of Smiles, however, are Southeast Asia’s most deadly roads, with the northern capital being among the worst fatality black spots
The Good
There are more than 300 temples in Chiang Mai; they outnumber 7/11 stores, which takes some doing in Thailand. Situated in the heart of the old city, Wat Phra Singh is the most venerated and visited although it’s probably not the ideal place for meditative contemplation. For that, stroll 10 minutes west of the moat and ancient city walls to Wat Suan Dok, where visitors pad around the pagodas in a state of shoeless serenity.
Having attained inner equilibrium, sign up for an hour of Monk Chat. Despite sounding like a dating app for less-than-devout Buddhists, the initiative is an informal way for foreigners to interact with Chiang Mai’s saffron-robed residents. The monks are more than happy to enlighten visitors on topics such as their daily routine and plans for the future, and why they all have a mobile phone. In return, the monks get to practise their English.
Scratch further beneath the surface of Thailand’s second city by getting off the busy main roads and into the side streets. Hidden from the highway are working-class neighbourhoods in which women serve up pungent bowls of steaming noodles from food carts and men sit by the roadside bashing miscellaneous bits of metal into shape. Motorcycle repair stalls share forecourt space with clothing stores, which, on closer inspection, are actually family homes with a week’s worth of laundry drying in the sun.
If you’re lucky, you might stumble upon a boutique hotel down an alleyway you missed the first three times you walked past. Book a room, order a pot of iced tea and wave at the granny mending clothes on an old sewing machine below your balcony. For lunch, see what’s on offer at the cheap and cheerful street stalls in the vicinity then for dinner, push the boat out and reserve a table at one of the high-end restaurants that line the banks of the Ping River.
Plenty of activities entice visitors beyond Chiang Mai and into the surrounding mountains. At this time of year, Doi Inthanon draws thousands of curious (mainly Thai) tourists keen to experience wintry conditions. Thailand’s highest point (2,565 metres) is often dusted with frost and temperatures can fall below zero. Further afield, elephant sanctuary visits (no riding allowed) paired with hill-tribe treks are big business, as are white-water rafting trips and mountain-biking adventures.
Chiang Mai welcomed about 3 million international tourists in 2017 but there’s also a large permanent community of foreigners dominated by two distinct groups. Younger freelance workers are attracted by the city’s reputation as a leading digital nomad destination while, at the other end of the spectrum, Chiang Mai is home to a large number of expat retirees. Both sets rave about the warm climate and cheap apartments, excellent health care and zippy Wi-fi speeds, not forgetting the delicious food, low crime rate and ever-helpful locals. Best of all, Thailand’s northern capital is only a 2½-hour flight from Hong Kong.
The Bad
