China’s Great Wall: the good, bad and ugly sides for tourists

THE GOOD

There are tourist attractions and there is the Great Wall of China. The longest structure ever built, it defined China’s borders for centuries and continues to serve as a symbol of national identity. Images of the wall, which passes through 10 provinces and cities, appear on postage stamps and wine labels; banknotes and travel visas. The cultural relic featured in the men’s cycling road race in the 2008 Summer Olympics and will provide the backdrop for the ski jumping, biathlon and cross-country events at the 2022 Winter Olympics.

The “Ten-Thousand Mile Long Wall” (it’s actually 13,170 miles, or 21,195km) begins amid the shifting sands of the Gobi Desert and climbs the mountains north of Beijing before tumbling down into the Yellow Sea. Another section extends to the North Korean border. A hiker could spend years exploring the Great Wall in its entirety. Strictly speaking, however, the World Heritage site should be called the Great Walls of China, as there are at least 16 sections; built over a period of 2,400 years, dating back to the 3rd century BC. The earliest defences were probably constructed in an attempt to keep hostile Xiongnu horsemen at bay and were reinforced and extended during the Ming dynasty (1368 to 1644) as a defence against marauding Mongol hordes.

The wall is at its most accessible and tourist-friendly at Badaling and Mutianyu. With favourable traffic conditions, you’ll be clambering up the steep steps a couple of hours after leaving Beijing. Snaking over distant hills and punctuated by block­ish fortifications, the crenellated battle­ments have long provided an iconic photo op for politicians and pop stars; not to mention millions of more humble visitors. Badaling and Mutianyu are popular with tour groups and can get crowded but keep walking; there’s plenty of wall for everyone and you don’t need to stray far off the beaten track to leave the crowds behind.

For a truly authentic experience, consider flying to Jiayuguan, the western starting point of the wall. Surrounded by desert hills to the north and towering mountains to the south, this is the legend­ary monument minus cable cars, coaches and crowds. The industrial city is 2,400km from Beijing by rail and so Jiayuguan is best visited as part of a Silk Road tour. Alternatively, head to Nanchang, in southeastern Jiangxi province, where a newly built 4km replica of the Great Wall is proving popular.