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Reflections | How chilli peppers in China were a substitute for salt before becoming widely popular

  • Spicy food is ubiquitous these days, as Denmark’s recall of too-spicy instant noodles showed. But it was not always that way

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Chinese farmers pick chilis in Hainan province. Centuries ago the chilli pepper was a salt substitute for the minority Miao people of southwest China, and unknown elsewhere in the country. Photo: Getty Images

Recently, Denmark recalled three flavours of instant noodles for being too spicy.

The country’s food and health authorities had assessed the levels of capsaicin in a single packet of Buldak instant noodles, made by South Korean company Samyang, to be “so high that they pose a risk of the consumer developing acute poisoning”, especially children, for whom extremely spicy food can cause harm.

I used to like spicy food. According to my parents, I was already something of a curry connoisseur shortly after I started on solid foods. I am in my early fifties now, and my tolerance for spicy foods has diminished, which, my doctor friends assure me, is quite normal for many people as they age.

To be sure, I still like the piquant kick that chilli peppers give to certain foods. It is the after-effects that make me think twice about dipping my tortilla chips in that extra-hot salsa. Let’s just say that if I did that, I am not going to be very sociable the following day.

Instant Buldak 2 x Spicy Chicken Ramen noodles from South Korean company Samyang similar to the ones recalled from stores by Danish health authorities for being dangerously spicy. Photo: EPA-EFE
Instant Buldak 2 x Spicy Chicken Ramen noodles from South Korean company Samyang similar to the ones recalled from stores by Danish health authorities for being dangerously spicy. Photo: EPA-EFE

Like dairy products – another much-loved comestible my older self has diminished tolerance for – my body’s response to spicy foods is selective.

While I am usually fine with freshly cut chillis or the powdered stuff, such as the Korean gochugaru, the combination of chillis with oil and certain spices is where I meet my Waterloo, as it were. So most varieties of sambal, which I love, are off limits, as are many hot sauces.
Having lived his whole life in the modern cities of Singapore and Hong Kong, Wee Kek Koon has an inexplicable fascination with the past. He is constantly amazed by how much he can mine from China's history for his weekly column in Post Magazine, which he has written since 2005.
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