avatar image
Advertisement
PostMag
Life.Culture.Discovery.

Then & Now | How Hong Kong and Chiang Mai share surprising historical links, gleaned from the Thai city’s foreign cemetery

  • Hong Kong-made tombstones aside, Chiang Mai’s foreign cemetery contains graves of European foresters who settled in the interwar years and married local women
  • To many of these men and others like them, English was important but not taught locally, and so a good number sent their children to Hong Kong to be educated

Reading Time:3 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
0
A tombstone in a cemetery. The cemeteries of Chiang Mai not only contain Hong Kong-made memorial masonary, but also bear testament to the educational ties that once bound northern Thailand to Hong Kong. Photo: Shutterstock

Decades ago, on a visit to Chiang Mai, in northern Thailand, unexpected elements of the region’s long-ago connections to Hong Kong’s own social history appeared.

The town’s foreign cemetery rewarded exploration; several gravestones bore small metal tags inscribed with “C.E. Warren and Co., Causeway Bay, Hong Kong”. These discreet manufacturer’s marks recalled a long-vanished local export industry – tombstones and monumental masonry.

Similar memorials can be found elsewhere in Thailand – Bangkok’s old foreign cemetery has numerous examples.

R.W. Wood’s fascinating-but-slim volume on Chiang Mai’s foreign cemetery’s “inhabitants”, De Mortuis: The Story of the Chiang Mai Foreign Cemetery (1999), and certain subtle details documented within its pages, illustrated other unexpected links to Hong Kong in the interwar years – that of broadened educational opportunity for Eurasian children.
The cover of Wood’s book.
The cover of Wood’s book.

In Thailand and Burma, some Anglo-Burmese and Anglo-Siamese, as Eurasians were referred to there, went to school in Hong Kong. Usually, their British (or other European) fathers were employed in the forestry industry in northern Burma (present-day Myanmar) or northern Siam (modern Thailand), and lived isolated lives in remote timber concessions.

Advertisement