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Shenzhen’s history didn’t start in 1979 – it goes back hundreds of years, to another golden age

  • The dynamic city, as well as what’s now being called the Greater Bay Area, has a far richer past than four decades of development suggest
  • Evidence of antiquity, long ignored in the region’s rush towards modernity, can still be found

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The perimeter walls of the Dawan Residence, in Shenzhen, China. Picture: Thomas Bird

The fishing-village-turned-metropolis hook thrown out by countless journalists when writing about Shenzhen neatly encapsulates the fact that a relative nowhere became a serious somewhere after Deng Xiaoping earmarked it as ground zero in the spearheading of reforms, in 1978. To this day, 40 years after the Chinese leader unleashed its long-dormant entrepre­neurial zeal, there is no better (or more readily applied) metaphor for the transformation of China than the sky­scraper-studded cityscape north of the Sham Chun River.

Even in the decade since the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games, during which the shutters have begun to close on Deng’s grand liberal experiment, Shenzhen has developed with abandon, transforming itself from a seedy-border-town-cum-manufacturing-hub into the engine room of China’s hi-tech and green innovation industries. Among the corporate heavy-hitters calling “China’s Silicon Valley” home are BYD, the world’s largest producer of electric vehicles, and Tencent, the world’s largest gaming and social media company.
 Like generations of aspirational migrants from the Chinese interior, the tech savvy are tempted south by comparatively low rent, an unparalleled supply chain and vibrant nightlife, which is perhaps why Lonely Planet put Shenzhen second on its top cities list for 2019.

“Shenzhen lets people like me do what we want to do,” explains festival organiser, radio DJ and bookstore owner Tu Fei, who hails from landlocked Hunan province and complains of the localism prevalent in cities such as Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou. If Shenzhen is accused of lacking anything, it is wenhua, which translates as “culture” but which can equally imply “roots”, “heritage” or a “strong sense of identity”.

Shenzhen was officially made a city in March 1979. The 40th birthday celebrations, however, began in earnest last year, with the anniversary of “reform and opening-up” marked by a neon-lit show illuminating the Futian district nightly from September to December with a spectacle to rival Hong Kong’s Symphony of Lights.

The four-decade, rags-to-riches story is a potent one but the notion that there was nothing but a fishing village in the 2,000 sq km Shenzhen now occupies until Deng waved his economic wand must surely sell the area short.

Thomas Bird is an East Asia-based writer chiefly concerned with travel, the environment and art. He has contributed to several guidebooks including The Rough Guide To Thailand. He's a regular contributing writer to the South China Morning Post and the author of Harmony Express. He likes train travel, craft beer and the teachings of Zhuangzi.
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