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Life.Culture.Discovery.

The Lunatic Express: how Kenya’s colonial railway compares to new China-built line

The Victorian-era Nairobi-to-Mombasa line offered a chance to see Kenya at a leisurely, if unreliable, pace

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A cargo train sets off on its inaugural journey from Mombasa to Nairobi on the new Chinese-built line. Picture: AFP

“Belt and Road Cooperation for Common Promutual Benefit,” proclaims a large street sign suspended above Beijing’s ever-congested second ring road.

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China is investing massively in its 21st-century reimagin­ing of the Silk Roads, even if the budget for fluid English translation remains insufficient. This rekindling of ancient trade routes is President Xi Jinping’s signature project and, in the year of the Communist Party’s 19th National Congress, the banners are flying the message of globalisation with Chinese characteristics.

Deals have been brokered from Vientiane to Vilnius, provoking critics to cry, “Empire!” and advocates to applaud vital infrastructure heading to countries most in need of investment.

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Many of those countries are in Africa and, in May, an unveiling in Kenya highlighted the fact that China’s inter­nationalist wheels are already very much in motion.

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