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What is natto? Just like durian, stinky tofu, the sticky soybean dish is loved or hated
- Most recently seen in a scene on FX show Shogun, natto – a Japanese dish of stinky fermented soybeans – is a divisive one for many people
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While watching the hit FX streaming series Shogun, which takes place in 16th century feudal Japan, I was pleasantly surprised to see one of my favourite ingredients appear in a quiet dinner scene that takes place in between the inter-clan warfare.
British maritime pilot John Blackthorne, who is in cahoots with the warlord Yoshii Toranaga, is dining with Mariko, their interpreter, when he notices that she is eating something that has not been served to him.
“What have you got there,” he asks as Mariko expertly whisks something in her bowl with chopsticks. “It is maybe not for you,” she answers, tersely.
“How do you mean? Let me try some!” he says, a little insulted.
“The anjin [pilot] would like to try natto,” Mariko says quietly in Japanese to Fuji, her niece-by-marriage, who is dining with them. “He seems quite determined.” Fuji fetches a bowl for Blackthorne.
“I remind you that you are under no obligation to try this dish,” Mariko tells Blackthorne in a measured voice. It is clear that she already knows how the foreigner will react to this esoteric food of theirs.
Charmaine Mok is the Deputy Culture Editor at SCMP and the desk's food and wine specialist. She has been working in food media since 2007, and most memorably drank 50 coffees over three days in the name of research. She’s devoted to telling unexpected stories of the dining scene in Asia and those who shape it, and is always in the mood for noodles and/or a cheeky beverage.
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