How to make Thai-style sukiyaki, a one-pot twist on a Japanese winter warmer

I was first served this dish by a Thai friend, when I was feeling under the weather. She called it “suki” and when I looked at her quizzically, she said, “Thai suki”, which didn’t clarify things. Finally, she called it “sukiyaki”, and, after I started eating it, I realised it’s a Thai version of what, in Japanese cuisine, is a dish with sliced beef, vegetables (leeks, Chinese cabbage, mushrooms) and glass noodles in a savoury-sweet dressing.

Thai sukiyaki uses similar ingredients, but is a lot more freewheeling. Yes, it has the vegetables (at least the cabbage and mushrooms) and glass noodles, but the protein can be meatballs, fresh shrimp or sliced pork, beef or chicken, it usually contains thick discs of egg tofu, and everything comes swimming in a light, clear broth. It is served with nam jim suki – a spicy sauce that you can mix into the broth or use as a dipping sauce for the meat.

Suki/Thai sukiyaki

This dish doesn’t take long to prepare – everything (apart from the sauce ingredients) is just boiled together in a pot. If you dislike pork meatballs, substitute fresh shrimp or sliced pork, beef or chicken (or you could use a combination of meats and seafood). Shrimp and sliced meat don’t take long to cook, so stir them into the broth just a few minutes before removing the pot from the heat.

I like to season the meatballs with the tougher stems from fresh coriander stalks (or even better, coriander roots), and use the leaves and thin stems to garnish the suki.

Glass noodles are also known as mung bean noodles (or vermicelli) or fen si. They are usually soaked in water until they soften slightly, but that’s not necessary for this dish – you can put them straight from the packet into the simmering broth.

Egg tofu is sold in tubes or rectangles. If possible, buy the tubes. If you can’t find egg tofu, use plain soft tofu, instead.