How to make Singapore-style ‘pork bone tea’, or bak kut teh, using a multicooker

I’m late to the game, but I’ve finally acquired a smart multicooker, which many people call an Instant Pot even if the device is not by that particular manu­facturer (it is not available in Hong Kong). It’s designed to be an all-in-one electric cooker that can do everything, from sous-vide to slow-cook, sauté and pressure cook. Depending on the brand, it might also have settings for yogurt, rice, porridge, cake and even dried abalone.

I have a stovetop pressure cooker, which I use often, but I’ll admit the pressure-cooker setting on the multicooker seems a lot safer. With the stovetop version, I’m always listening for the whistling from the valve warning me it’s at maximum pressure, which means I need to lower the flame. Occasionally, I lower the heat too much and the pressure drops so far I might as well be using a regular pan.

Singaporean-style bak kut teh

The Singaporean and Malaysian versions of bak kut teh (“pork bone tea”) are very different. The former is strong, almost hot, with pepper, especially white pepper, while the latter is fragrant with Chinese herbs and spices. I love both, but it’s easier to find the ingredients for the Singaporean style in Hong Kong, so that’s what I’ve made. It’s the perfect dish to make in a multicooker.

I use whole peppercorns and grind them myself because the flavour is better than the pre-ground version. This recipe is quite peppery, and if you want it milder, use only two teaspoons of white peppercorns. Cassia bark is often labelled as cinnamon, even though it is not the same. True cinnamon is thin and easy to break into pieces using just your fingers, while cassia bark is thicker and harder.

Put the pepper, cassia bark and star anise into a spice bag (which looks like a tea bag) large enough for the spices to swim – if the bag is too small, they won’t release their flavour. Be sure to secure the top of the bag with twine, or the spices (especially the crushed pepper) might escape.