Eat your way around India’s regional and seasonal vegetarian cuisine with comprehensive cookbook
Pushpesh Pant takes the reader from his Himalayan hometown, showcasing each of the subcontinent’s six seasons’ through its bountiful produce
Food obviously played a key role in Pushpesh Pant’s childhood. In his introduction to The Indian Vegetarian Cookbook (2018), he writes that he was raised by an extended family in Mukteshwar, “a small, sleepy town, practically a village in the Himalayas, which was inaccessible by car until the mid-1950s. One had to depend on local and seasonal produce almost all year round – except in the summer when fruits and vegetables from the plains were imported more easily.”
“Food at home was an amalgam of regional cuisines and reflected the resplendence of a pan-Indian culinary repertoire. My parents’ families, though Brahmins, had no inhibitions about eating meat, but my mother herself was vegetarian by choice. She cooked a wide variety of kebabs and meaty curries that we loved, but we never treated these as superior to the vegetarian delicacies dear to her [...]
“My mother excelled at transforming the quotidian into the exotic by improvising on what she had tasted in her life’s journeys. One day it could be sambar (lentil-based stew) from the south of India, the next day the same lentil might don the Awadhi garb. Bengali cholar daal (spiced lentil and cardamom dal) would be followed the next week by its Punjabi rendering.”
It’s obvious that the food Pant knows is a far cry from the generic Indian food familiar to the rest of the world. “India is a country and also a sprawling subcontinent, whose name is associated with an ancient civilisation. Except peninsular India, the subcontinent experiences six seasons – spring, summer, monsoon, fall, beginning of winter and end of winter – and traditional wisdom prescribes specific foods to be consumed in harmony with the seasons [...]
