How to make fluffy cheese buns using the tangzhong roux technique

This recipe uses a technique that I haven’t written about before: tangzhong. It goes by several other names, such as hot water bread (or water roux bread), Hokkaido or Japanese milk bread and 65 degree bread (because you cook the roux to 65 degrees Celsius).

The technique supposedly originated in Japan, but its popularity is widely attributed to Yvonne Chen, who wrote about it in a Chinese-language book. You’ll probably be familiar with the bread, if not the technique, because it’s what many Hong Kong bakeries use to make those fluffy, slightly sweet rolls and loaves that stay soft for several days, instead of going hard quickly, thanks to the water roux (or, with this recipe, a milk roux) that helps the bread retain moisture.

Piment d’espelette butter and aged comte cheese rolls

This dough can be mixed and baked the same day, or refrigerated overnight, whichever is more convenient. The rolls are delicious on their own, but are even better when warmed then spread with even more butter.

For the tangzhong:
35 grams bread flour
175ml whole milk

For the dough:
495 grams bread flour
25 grams sugar
5 grams instant yeast
5 grams fine-grained sea salt
The tangzhong
175ml whole milk
2 large eggs, at room temperature
200 grams piment d’espelette butter, slightly softened, divided
150 grams aged comte (or a mix of aged comte and parmesan)

Make the tangzhong. Put the flour and milk in a saucepan, whisk until smooth then place the pan over a low-medium flame. Whisk constantly until an instant-read thermometer registers 65 degrees Celsius. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and set it aside to cool.