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Barton family winemakers keep fans loyal with quality Bordeaux without the exorbitant prices

The winemakers have leveraged their Irish heritage to sidestep geopolitics in their nearly 300 years in the French region

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Lilian Barton-Sartorius. Picture: May Tse
Sarah Wong

Even after almost 300 years in Bordeaux, the Barton family of winemakers is renowned for its international outlook. Lilian Barton-Sartorius, the current and seventh generation owner of the business, was born in Denmark to a Danish mother, who had been in Bordeaux to learn French, and an Irish father, who had moved to the French region to join the family firm, and was educated in Britain. She also lived and worked in Hong Kong in the late 1970s.

Even further back – in 1722, to be precise – Barton-Sartorius’ ancestor Thomas Barton arrived in Bordeaux from Ireland to set up a negociant business on the riverfront Quai des Chartrons. The family’s Irish heritage has benefited exports, especially to English-speaking countries.

“In Ireland, we are considered an Irish wine,” Barton-Sartorius says. “Even in America, when they were being cross with France over the Gulf war, an American customer wanted more Léoville Barton 2000, and said it was not a French wine but an Irish wine. And, of course, during war between France and England, and then during the last [world] war, Ireland was neutral, so that helped.”

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There are many other reasons to drink Barton family wines. They have a solid reputation for consistent quality and are true to their terroir. Reasonable pricing has also won them a legion of loyal customers.

“As long as we earn enough to keep the property in good shape and we are able to do good promotion trips and so on, there is no need to raise the prices too much,” Barton-Sartorius says. “Also, we are our own bosses and don’t have to render accounts to international or rich owners who are just businessmen.”

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