Cookbook: Donabe, the mystery of the Japanese clay pot revealed

Many cultures around the world use clay or earthenware pots for cooking, and this method of preparing food has a long history. Our early ancestors most likely wrapped clay around raw ingredients before cooking them directly in a fire, then broke away the hardened clay when the food was ready. This evolved into the use of pots that could be employed over and over again.

Different cultures made their clay pots in shapes that best suited their cooking methods. Most food lovers know about North African tagines, which have domed or conical lids that allow condensa­tion formed during cooking to drip down and keep the food moist.

Chinese and Koreans have pots that are shaped differ­ently for preparing different dishes, such as rice, soups and stews.

Spanish-speaking countries use cazuelas, with some designed specifically for cooking beans; in France, the clay pot traditionally used for cassoulet has a narrow base and wide top to allow for better concentration of flavours, and so a larger amount of crust will form on the surface.

But nowhere are clay pots as beautiful and varied as they are in Japan, where they are called “donabe”. Craftsmen have been producing such pots for generations, making them into practical works of art (although many are certainly pretty enough to be displayed). In this book, Naoko Takei Moore explains the donabe’s appeal.