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Life.Culture.Discovery.

Why Billie Eilish understands body-positivity better than the fashion industry

  • The 18-year old singer opened her new tour with a powerful comment on the way women’s bodies are valued
  • While more designers are dressing more curvaceous forms, the fashion industry still has a long way to go

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Dutch model Jill Kortleve walked Chanel’s autumn/winter 2020 runway, making her the first plus-sized model to appear for the fashion house since Crystal Renn in 2010.
I have been thinking about weight a lot recently. Is it ever far from our minds? The many fat jokes that have accompanied self-quarantine during the Covid-19 pandemic are a little too close to the bone – or new flab.

A few disparate events have recently put the spotlight back on the fashion industry’s efforts to be inclusive when it comes to sizing. In Paris, celebration and controversy ensued when Dutch model Jill Kortleve walked Chanel’s autumn/winter 2020 runway, making her the first plus-sized model to appear for the fashion house since Crystal Renn in 2010.

The gorgeous Kortleve looked more minus than plus as far as I could tell, especially when you consider that the average dress size is 16 to 18 in the United States and 16 in Britain. However, fashion still loves a human hanger, even if luxury groups Kering and LVMH banned models below a US size 2 or under 16 years old from their shows beginning in 2017. Over at Fendi’s autumn/winter 2020 show in Milan, history was apparently made when plus-sized Paloma Elsesser was cast alongside Kortleve. Were we supposed to clap?

Watch a video from Billie Eilish’s tour below. Warning: contains strong language.

Around the same time in Miami, Billie Eilish released a poignant video at the kick-off of her world tour. The singer, who has hidden her body beneath baggy apparel to avoid being sexualised or body-shamed, removed layers of clothing and asked: “Would you like me to be smaller? Weaker? Softer? Taller? … The body I was born with, is it not what you wanted?” Then, “Is my value based only on your perception?” The answer, sadly, has all too often been yes for many women for generations.

In Western civilisa­tions, curvaceous female forms were once exalted as the epitome of beauty. Plus-sized was the right size from the Venus of Willendorf (circa 25,000BC) and the Venus de Milo (100BC) all the way through to The Three Graces (1630-35) by Peter Paul Rubens. But by the 16th century, the tyranny of shapewear had well and truly taken hold in Europe. Extreme bust-waist-hip ratios could only be achieved in real life with the use of corsets.

Style writer, personal shopper and teacher, Sofia A. Suárez, contributes to newspapers, magazines, travel guides and luxury brands around the world. Born and raised in Hong Kong, the Filipina-Italian attended Georgetown University before moving to New York to begin her career at Fairchild Publications. She has been a contributor to the Post since 1999, focusing on fashion, art and design.
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