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Chiang Mai’s live music scene is enjoying a renaissance

The northern Thai city is a magnet for an eclectic group of musicians from all over the world

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The Chiang Mai Night Bazaar hosts live music every night. Pictures: Aoise Tutty

Chiang Mai’s music scene is enjoying something of a golden age.

Just over 30 years ago, The Riverside opened its doors and, according to British saxophonist and long-term resident Paul Sugars, the venue became a pioneer of live music in the northern Thai city. Since then, the scene has grown steadily and changed markedly.

Nine years ago, the North Gate Jazz Club opened, offering a space in which musicians would experiment, jamming together in a way that was unprecedented in Chiang Mai. Now a favourite among visitors to Thailand’s “jewel of the north”, North Gate hosts some of the best musicians in the region on a nightly basis.

Lawrence “Binkey” Tolefree performs at a North Gate jam session, with bassist Krit.
Lawrence “Binkey” Tolefree performs at a North Gate jam session, with bassist Krit.

With new venues such as Thapae East, Gossip Gallery and Roadhouse, as well as a host of others, having opened in recent years, a music lover here can go to an event every night knowing they can expect a treat in terms of talent, technique and ingenuity. Jazz, blues, rock, reggae and myriad blends of styles can be heard.

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