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Susan Jung

Affogato ("drowned" in Italian) is one of the ultimate pick-me-ups, far more so than tiramisu (whose name translates to "pick me up"). It's easy to make - pour a shot of espresso over ice cream and you get not only a welcome jolt of caffeine, but a lovely contrast between the hot coffee and frozen ice cream, which melts slowly. I'll leave the espresso up to you, since everyone likes it their own way - but please don't use instant powder. However you make the espresso, serve it with one of these ice creams.
Vanilla ice cream
3 large egg yolks, at room temperature
150 grams granulated sugar
1/2 tsp fine sea salt
1 vanilla bean
500ml whole milk
500ml cream
45ml rum, cognac or brandy
Mix the milk and cream in a saucepan. Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and use a paring knife to scrape out the seeds. Put the seeds and scraped-out pod into the saucepan. Place over a medium flame, bring to a simmer, then turn off the heat.
In a medium-sized bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar and salt. Add a ladleful of the milk/cream mixture and whisk immediately. Add another ladleful of milk/cream and whisk, then repeat twice more (this heats the egg mixture slowly, so it won't curdle as easily when it's cooked). Constantly whisk the remaining milk/cream as you pour the egg mixture into the saucepan. Place over a low flame and stir slowly but constantly with a wooden spoon. Stir in a back-and-forth motion, scraping the entire bottom of the pan so the mixture cooks evenly and doesn't scramble. The custard mixture is ready when you can draw a track mark with your finger across the spoon. Immediately pour the mixture through a fine sieve into a clean bowl (discard the vanilla pod, or rinse and let dry at room temperature, then put into a container of sugar to make vanilla-scented sugar). Cool the mixture to room temperature, whisking frequently. Whisk in the rum, cognac or brandy, then cover with cling-film and refrigerate for about eight hours. Process in an ice-cream machine (you might need to do it in batches) then pack into a container and freeze for at least three hours, to allow the flavours to blend and the ice cream to harden.
Chocolate ice cream
The combination of chocolate and coffee is classic, and for a good reason - the flavours are delicious together. A chocolate affogato tastes like a caffe mocha, only better.
300ml milk, divided
200 grams bittersweet chocolate (with a cacao content of 70 to 80 per cent), chopped
3 large egg yolks, at room temperature
80 grams granulated sugar
1/4 tsp fine sea salt
200ml double cream
20ml rum, cognac or brandy
Put 100ml of milk in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Turn off the flame, add the chopped chocolate and stir until melted and smooth.
In another pan, heat the remaining milk over a medium flame until simmering, then turn off the heat. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar and salt. Add a ladleful of milk to the bowl and whisk. Repeat twice more, then pour the mixture into the saucepan. Place over a low flame and, stirring constantly, cook as in the first recipe. Remove from the heat and whisk in the chocolate mixture and the double cream. Pour through a fine sieve into a clean bowl and cool to room temperature, whisking often. Stir in the rum, cognac or brandy then cover with cling-film and refrigerate for about eight hours. Process in an ice-cream machine, pack into a container and freeze for at least three hours.
Espresso ice cream
This recipe, mixed with a shot of freshly brewed espresso, gives a double dose of caffeine. It's based on one from the cookbook A Passion for Ice Cream, by Emily Luchetti.
2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
75 grams granulated sugar
1/8 tsp fine sea salt
80ml whole milk
300ml cream
1 tbsp instant espresso powder (use an Italian brand)
10ml rum, cognac or brandy
Pour the milk and cream into a saucepan and whisk in the espresso powder. Place over a medium flame, bring to a simmer then turn off the heat. In a bowl, whisk together the yolks, sugar and salt. Add a ladleful of the milk/cream into the bowl and whisk; repeat twice. Pour the mixture into the saucepan and cook over a low flame, as in the previous recipes. Pour through a fine sieve into a clean bowl and cool to room temperature. Whisk in the rum, cognac or brandy, then cover with cling-film and refrigerate for about eight hours. Process in an ice-cream machine, pack into a container and freeze for at least three hours.
Styling Nellie Ming Lee


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