Medellin makeover: from 'world's most dangerous city' to beacon of culture
Imaginative civic spaces, multiple green initiatives, the art of Fernando Botero, and urban regeneration have transformed Colombia's second city, once notorious for its drug lords, writes Chris Moss
I had my doubts about Medellin. Next time someone says "most dangerous city on Earth", I'll pull a machine gun on them - that spurious claim was made more than a quarter of a century ago, in magazine, in March 1988.
Like Bogota and Santiago de Cali, Medellin is a much wealthier, safer and more fashionable city these days, and its year-round summery climate, nearby forests and bird reserves and, indeed, the fact that it hasn't been backpackered into oblivion - unlike Cusco, say - make it a rather more desirable destination.
I was also dubious about claims that the city is the epitome of the "Colombian miracle" - shorthand for the quelling of violence of the left-wing Farc and paramilitary forces. Medellin has sizeable shanty towns, and the heavy presence of cops in the centre indicates that vigilance is vital to keeping up appearances.
See also: Medellin artist Fernando Botero talks to Fionnuala McHugh
On a balmy day in the zen-inspired, "interactive" Parque de los Pies Descalzos ("barefoot park"), however, I start to believe Colombia's second city might have something interesting to tell me after all.
It begins with me removing my shoes to stroll along a footpath of pebbles lined by guadua bamboo. The stones and slimy mud are soothing. Next, I walk out on to a lawn which, according to Adriana, my guide, "absorbs static energy". A group led by two of the park's official guides (provided free of charge) is hugging trees. Next comes a maze, which visitors are encouraged to cross with closed eyes, using only touch, sound and instinct. Finally I dip my legs into a cooling footbath.
"How much time do you dedicate in a whole week to your feet?" asks Adriana. "Consider all that they do for you."
This all takes place in the heart of the city, in the shadow of a utilities company building, for whose employees the park was originally created. With cafes and restaurants close by, it has become a focal point for workers as well as tourists.
